Bushey Heath, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

This vintage Kensington haunt – named after the pseudonym used by the late Princess Margaret when wining and dining as a commoner – delights its guests with its gorgeous and romantic, rustic decor. Never a foodie fave rave: expect the kind of “delicious” 1970s brasserie-style comfort food which will not distract from a “lovely family meal”, or more intimate tête-à-tête.

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The Scottish roots of Ranald Macdonald (the eldest son of the 24th chief and captain of Clanranald) help explain the approach of this Belgravian stalwart, which – since 1986 – has majored in a menu of Scottish-sourced beef and burgers (plus lobster and a few other dishes); backed up by an ‘old school’ wine list informed by Ranald’s original career in the wine trade; and topped off with a huge range of whiskies. “Live music helps make it fun” and there’s also a cigar terrace. On the downside, although harsh critiques are absent, its overall rating suggests it is fully priced. (For traditional expense-accounters, though, it’s tailor-made.)

Back in the day, this small chamber – in a luxury five-star near the back of Harrods – was a much stiffer and foodie affair. In recent times the style has become laid-back – bare tables and an all-day menu (much of it from a Josper grill). Feedback is a little up-and-down, but even a reporter who was “a little disappointed” ultimately rated the experience as “good all-round”.

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“Ignore The Ritz around the corner, for afternoon tea this is the place to go” according to fans of this St James’s bastion: “the scones are soft and freshly baked”, “the sandwiches and cakes are divine”, and the “famous Dukes ‘James Bond’ martini is an optional extra”.

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“These very big premises were once a prestigious tailor’s” – then more recently a branch of the Browns brasserie chain – and are now “a pub-like restaurant in the middle of Mayfair”. Fans are impressed by “its competent realisation of a standard menu” of British classics. But service can be “somewhat patchy” and food can be “fairly average” as a result.

‘Hoof, feather and field’ is the billing given to the meaty options (which are the top choices) at this traditional dining room – a peaceful space, discreetly hidden away in St James’s and overseen from afar by its ‘food director’, star-chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen of The Stafford’s sister property, Northcote (in Lancs). Practically all reports applaud its all-round professional performance and also its “extensive” cellar. Top Tip – a shout out to the “sumptuous and plentiful” afternoon tea served on the “wonderful comfortable sofas” nearby complete with “free refills for the sandwiches!”

“A last redoubt of traditional gastronomy” – London’s oldest restaurant in St James’s (est. 1742, but on this site since the 1980s) maintains its “quiet” and “calm” style, with “understated but excellent service” and “booths that make a superb place to do business”. Classic fish dishes – for example “very good Dover sole off the bone” – are the speciality and “ever-reliable”. A less welcome constant are its “eye-watering prices”: “everything was as I hoped it would be… apart from the bill!”

Dover sole filleted at the table, “choosing from pick’n’mix from the sweet trolley” and “cocktails in a smoking glass” typify the retro flourishes favoured by the comfy dining room and bar of this traditional Mayfair venue. Feedback isn’t super-plentiful, but all upbeat – “a lovely experience at a reasonable price”.