Stem had Jay Rayner from the amuse-bouche. He was looking for reassurance, having never eaten at the chef’s previous restaurants, and not quite knowing what to expect, but “a tiny, exceedingly crisp tart filled with a deep chive emulsion, all onion kick and adoration” did the trick. The menu of “good clean English, and full […]

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Chef Kieren Steinborn-Busse is to open his first restaurant. The Falcon will launch in Buntingford, Hertfordshire, in November. Steinborn-Busse plans to serve “British comfort food and rustic recipes using seasonal, local produce”. His wife Natasha will lead the front of house team. The venue sounds charming. The Falcon is a Grade II-listed Tudor property featuring […]

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Brigadiers, London EC4 Jay Rayner departed Brigadiers smelling of “roasted spices, garlic and happiness”. It’s the latest opening from the “extremely professional” JKS Restarants, “one of the slickest outfits in the business” (Gymkhana, Hoppers, Lyle’s), located “within the dead-eyed Bloomberg arcade in the City”, and “feels like a direct response to the financial institutions surrounding […]

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