Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 9 February 2020. Casa do Frango, London EC2 “Tortured food v excellent ingredients unmucked-about — I know what wins every time” Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times was craving chicken and chips after enduring a TV show in which Heston Blumenthal made a […]
“Cheery sea-view restaurant”, Regatta in Aldeburgh, praised for “fish [that’s] always fresh and beautifully cooked” is, according to its Twitter account, to close its doors in eight days after nearly 30 years in business. A farewell statement on their Twitter page from owners Rob and Jo Mabey said: “Thank you Aldeburgh! It’s been a pleasure […]
Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda will open their second branch of Padella, in Shoreditch, on February 13. The pasta spot, a long-time favourite since opening in Borough Market in 2016, will feature another open kitchen with countertop dining, and will again operate with a no reservations policy. The menu won’t be wildly different to the […]
Mayfair restaurant The Square was seized mid-service by administrators on Friday January 31. First reported by the Staff Canteen, diners were allegedly eating at the restaurant when it was taken and immediately closed. It came four months after lawyers served owner Marlon Abela, who operates Marlon Abela Restaurant Corporation, with a bankruptcy petition. As well […]
Dormy House hotel in Broadway, Worcestershire, has appointed Ryan Shilton as its new head chef. Shilton has joined the hotel from Larder Lichfield in Staffordshire, and has also previously worked at Swinfen Hall hotel nearby. The chef will be responsible for the Back Garden restaurant as well as the more casual Potting Shed. He will […]
Legendary Indian restaurant Gymkhana has announced a reopening date: February 18. The relaunch comes nine months after a fire closed the restaurant, much to the dismay of its many fans. Gymkhana will offer the same menu that has earned it accolades since 2014, though with new additions, and has been given a complete refurbishment. Reservation […]
The head chef of Elystan Street has left the restaurant due to what has been described as a “professional difference of opinion”. On Instagram, Toby Burrowes said: “Well the time has come, I have stepped down as head chef at Elystan Street, due to a professional difference of opinion.” The chef moved to Elystan Street […]
Nobu is allegedly set to close its Mayfair restaurant in Berkeley Street ahead of launching in Portman Square in the summer. Nobu Matsuhisa, Robert De Niro and Meir Teper opened the restaurant 15 years ago and now, under the Nobu Hospitality banner, operate two other London sites in Shoreditch, a hotel which opened in 2017, […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 2 February 2020. Mei Mei, London SE1 Jimi Famurewa for The Evening Standard is the first to report on Elizabeth Haigh’s new Borough Market Kitchen outlet; the “tiny counter café” that’s “a meticulous, loving riff on the thrumming ‘kopitiam’ coffee shops that are […]
Chef Tom Aikens has opened his latest restaurant, Muse, in Chelsea. Already his ten-course tasting menu has been called everything from terribly “pretentious twaddle” to “pure genius“. It has, it’s safe to say, caused a stir. It remains to be seen whether the controversial chef will win over the public. But it’s where people will […]
