It doesn’t take bookings and “like the new-look Tom Kerridge himself, is much smaller than you’re expecting” but the food doesn’t disappoint and would be worth waiting for.
She finds a few things to quibble over, but in the end ‘it was so much more hit than miss, and the misses became lovable eccentricities rather than flaws’.
Lisa Markwell thought Kitty Fisher’s Galician beef would be “dish of the year”, but there’s another contender already: the wild-game pithivier at Portland.
‘Anju, a general term for Korean food served with alcohol, is a word being added to the London restaurant-goers’ vocabulary,’ says the Standard’s critic-in-chief.
The Observer’s critic finds food of the kind of quality one might not expect to see in a working Lancashire village like this.
‘You can often eat better French food in London than the Languedoc,’ the Guardian reviewer writes, and this old standard can still hold its own among Gallic newcomers.