Harden’s review of the reviews

Tom KerridgeThe Indy’s Tracey Mcleod heads to Marlow to review Tom Kerridge’s new venture, Coach

It doesn’t take bookings and “like the new-look Tom Kerridge himself, is much smaller than you’re expecting” but the food doesn’t disappoint and would be worth waiting for.

 

Telegraph critic Zoe Williams says Great Portland Street’s Portland is ‘a breath of fresh air’

She finds a few things to quibble over, but in the end ‘it was so much more hit than miss, and the misses became lovable eccentricities rather than flaws’.

 

Yet another glowing review for Fitzrovia’s new Portland, this time courtesy of The Indy 

Lisa Markwell thought Kitty Fisher’s Galician beef would be “dish of the year”, but there’s another contender already: the wild-game pithivier at Portland.

 

Bo Drake is one of the year’s most anticipated openings and – surprise, surprise – Fay Maschler gets in there first

‘Anju, a general term for Korean food served with alcohol, is a word being added to the London restaurant-goers’ vocabulary,’ says the Standard’s critic-in-chief.

 

Jay Rayner heads to the recently reopened White Swan at Fence, now helmed by a Northcote graduate

The Observer’s critic finds food of the kind of quality one might not expect to see in a working Lancashire village like this.

 

And Marina O’Laughlin heads to old City favourite, Café du Marché, off Charterhouse Square

‘You can often eat better French food in London than the Languedoc,’ the Guardian reviewer writes, and this old standard can still hold its own among Gallic newcomers.

 

 

 

 

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