Westminster, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“We always come here when in London, as it’s such an atmospheric venue in a fantastic location” – St Martin-in-the-Fields has a superb, brick-vaulted crypt and its self-service cafeteria provides an unusually affordable option in this prime area. It’s variable though – hit lucky and you can have “a good value, very casual meal, if from a limited menu”; but one or two reports this year noted “real disappointment with the food offering”.

A post-War gem in Westminster, this “bright, Formica-tabled institution serves old-fashioned greasy-spoon fare” and is a place of retro pilgrimage nowadays. Don’t be put off by the “intimidating queue, which moves reasonably quickly – and there’s always a table miraculously free in the end”. “We returned for the first time in six years and it’s still as great as it ever was…” – in fact, it’s barely changed since opening in 1946.

“Always a place to impress your business guest” – this famous chamber (one of Lady Thatcher’s favourites back in the day) has “sufficiently widely spaced tables to encourage discreet conversation” and the Art Deco elegance of its surroundings has, by and large, survived its recent ‘Gatsby’ makeover. It’s had its ups and downs under the Gordon Ramsay group’s long (20+ years) tenure here and is not in a purple period currently. Much of the problem is “ludicrous prices”. Those on expenses do acclaim “the iconic Arnold Bennett soufflé, the deeply satisfying Cote de Boeuf to share (if your guest is a meat eater: if not point him/her in the direction of the steamed turbot) and the magnificent Beef Wellington” but even they acknowledge “the bill is serious”. Those paying their own way are more inclined to feel: “it used to be a favourite, especially for that special occasion, but the mark-up on the wines in particular have become a rip-off”.

“Step back in time at London’s oldest restaurant” – on this site, in Covent Garden, since 1798 – “where the best of British resounds in its decor, menu and ambience”. “Sometimes derided for being outdated or a tourist trap” (“fellow guests were either Yanks or elderly Brexiteers”), it actually remains remarkably “popular with the locals” and its large fan club says “a visit should be on everyone’s bucket list”. Hollywood would be proud of the decor (“it looks like the kind of place you dine in before deciding to conquer a remote land in the name of the crown”) and – though some of its antique furnishings are vaguely “preposterous” – the “special time warp” that’s created is “enchanting”. The “classic” menu has a fair share of “old-school-boy favourites” featuring a good amount of meat and game; and although it is “expensive” and “won’t blow you away”, it is “done well”. “The wine list is OK if not great (sort of gentlemen’s club level) but at least the mark-ups are reasonable”. “Don’t forget to visit the hidden gem of an upstairs cocktail bar to get the full experience”. Top Menu Tip – “the old fashioned steak and kidney suet pudding with rich extra gravy in a silver boat. Crisp on the outside, meltingly soft on the inside with gloriously tender pieces of meat”.

Could it be a dream team? Restaurant supremo Jeremy King has partnered with Savoy owners Fairmont to mastermind the autumn 2024 relaunch of this celebrated temple to roast beef on the Strand (est. 1828) which backs onto The Savoy. King has described Simpson’s as “the last of the ‘grande dame’ restaurants that still retains its original décor and features” and few relaunches carry such expectations and potential. The astonishing mediocrity of its traditional fare over recent decades has – notwithstanding its period charms; ongoing fame; large size; half-hearted relaunch after half-hearted relaunch; the huge surge in interest in dining out; and rising esteem for British cuisine – become an ever-more-obscure anachronism. King has said he envisions “a big-theatre brasserie”, but one that would “very much hark on its tradition” (“I want people to walk in there and say, ‘Oh good, they haven’t changed it’, although it will have changed”). Even if they have auctioned off the famous beef trolleys, if anyone can do it, it will be King… it could be so good.

“A wonderful old-school oasis below the hell that is Leicester Square” – this “fabulous throwback to a proper wine bar” is “remarkably unchanged” since Don Hewitson opened it in 1971 (and his successor Will Clayton sticks to the winning formula). “The famous ham-and-cheese pie is well worth its million-odd portions! and is the perfect accompaniment to a great wine list”.

“London at its most decadent” – this is one of the capital’s top afternoon teas in the Café Royal’s stunning rococo grill room (dating from 1865): “an opulent chamber packed with history, as well as mirrors so you can see everyone else!” (not to mention endless nymphs and cherubs painted all over the ceilings). It’s “a traditional afternoon tea and all the better for it – a great selection of really fresh sandwiches, followed by scones (with the best strawberry jam ever) and, if you still have room, the patisserie options (and if you don’t have room, don’t worry as they will pack it up beautifully for you to take home). And to wash it all down, there is a tea menu and you can choose as many different teas as you would like to try. And you are helped through it all by charming and knowledgeable staff. A delight”.

“The interior is so magnificent, it feels like eating in Versailles!” at this “beautiful” chamber, which many cognoscenti consider to be “the most attractive dining room in London”. If you are a natural traditionalist and have money to burn, “this is the restaurant in London for that special meal” because “every time you go it feels like a perfect, memorable occasion” (and “thankfully a dress code is still in force!”). Under John Williams and his team, “absolutely stellar ingredients are superbly cooked with sensible updating of classic dishes; all combined with immaculate, polished silver service”. It’s “undeniably expensive, yes”, although fans feel it’s “worth every penny”. In fact, some of the fooderati feel that “surely two Michelin stars are warranted”: “I just can’t see why the Guide only gives it one star, as it’s so much better than some of the Gallic three stars not that far away!!”. Top Menu Tips – “The langoustines à la nage are perfectly cooked with magic flavours. The foie gras is perfection. The pigeon de Bresse utterly amazing – so hard to cook immaculately as it is. Don’t start me on the truffle jus!”. And “there is usually some theatre when someone has ordered the Crêpes Suzette, cooked at the table, apparently with a healthy slug of booze, and with flames shooting up every so often around the room!”

“Brilliant seafood and the best vibe” fuel the festivities at this upbeat venue – “still one of the most fun restaurants in London”, where “watching Soho life go by is just brilliant!”. The premises was converted almost 30 years ago from an Edwardian butcher’s, famous for supplying The Ritz, the Savoy and Winston Churchill – hence the name and wonderful interior. Grab a high stool, a glass of fizz and a simple plate of something fishy and it’s a great antidote to life’s challenges.

“A wonderful room that’s very light and with well-spaced tables” – this “quintessential” traditional hotel dining room, just around the corner from Buckingham Palace, is well-suited to a special occasion and is popular for business, romance or “a pricey family treat”. Opened in 1910 by Otto Goring, it is part of the only five star hotel in London still to be run by the family who opened it (Jeremy Goring is the current CEO), which has always lent the whole establishment a more personal style than its corporate competitors. Historically, the dining room’s British fare has been more notable for its traditional values than its finesse, and diners in our survey acclaim it as “reliable” if rather “undemanding”: perfect for traditionalists, but less ‘haute’ than its Michelin star might suggest. Breakfast, for example, is a big attraction here, as is one of the “best afternoon teas in the UK”. When it comes to lunch and dinner service, dishes like “first class lobster” excel. The old school service is well-rated but “not what it was” a few years ago, in the opinion of some regular guests. In May 2024 the space reopened, complete with an opulent new interior, care of Russell Sage Studio and a new kitchen for Executive Chef Graham Squire: hopefully all the new kit for the kitchen will mean this year’s food rating is on the cautious side.

For an “exquisite afternoon tea” in the archetypal English mould, the “relaxing” wood-panelled lounge of this elegant but unflashy Mayfair hotel is “just lovely” and perennially ranks alongside more famous names like the Ritz down the road in the eyes of its fanclub. The hotel dates from 1837 and counts Queen Victoria and Agatha Christie as former patrons.

“A most enjoyable meal in an attractive setting” is reported by just over half of reporters visiting the cheaper section of this rooftop landmark on the South Bank. The remainder, though, “expect much, much better at these prices”: “it has a great view but very disappointing food and service – trading off its location!”

“The perfect place to eavesdrop and/or bring a lover… it just screams (murmurs?) romantique!” – this “legendary Soho institution” has navigated the sad loss of its owner and founder in September 2022, and remains one of the Top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll. Set in a “super-cosy”, Dickensian townhouse, its effortless charm bewitches all of the many who comment on it; and “long may its handwritten menus, its candles in bottles on the table, its tiny tables in the wood-panelled room and charming service continue”. “The range and quality of their legendary wine list at exceptional prices for London is the main gastronomic attraction, but their modern British food is pretty good too”: “never fussy, but always very well done and incredibly tasty”. “The church pew seating can get uncomfortable over a long sitting… nothing that another bottle of wine won’t solve!”. “I was worried it would decline after Andrew passed away, but the staff are doing his memory true service, continuing the Edmunds tradition of real hospitality: it is better than ever!”

What does it say about the culinary tastes of the British middle classes that this spin-off chain, with about 40 locations based on the original Theatreland icon, has been such a rip-roaring success? True, there’s some “great people-watching” at the “always buzzing” Chelsea Garden venue (which has one of SW3’s best gardens). And, without doubt, those branches in Kensington, Tower Bridge and Kingston also particularly stand out amongst the rest for their “super atmosphere”. In general though, the knock-off look of their locations “isn’t a patch on the original on West Street, yet pretends to be exactly the same”. And when it comes to their brasserie dishes: although its many followers tout them as “acceptable, albeit nothing special”, their rating-average identifies them as “underwhelming tick-box fare”; all offered by service that’s very “indifferent”. And yet they are “always busy”! In June 2024, it was announced that billionaire Richard Caring had successfully sold his entire Ivy restaurants stake. Now that he is laughing all the way to the bank, it will be interesting to see if ratings reverse, continue or deepen their southward trend.

Old-fashioned Mayfair dining room within a luxurious 94-bedroom hotel, whose retro offerings include Dover sole filleted at the table and a wide variety of afternoon teas. For a traditional British experience, it’s recommended in all reports.