London, French Restaurant Guide

With “stunning summer views from its large terrace towards the Royal Exchange, Mansion House and back to St Paul’s Cathedral” – this modern French restaurant atop No 1 Poultry from Evolv (fka D&D London) is currently riding high under executive chef Damien Rogollet and fulfilling its central mission as “a good upmarket City choice”. Staff are “really helpful and friendly despite the restaurant being busy inside and out” and if “a la carte is on the expensive side”, the “very good value set lunch menu” compensates; and while the “wine list is mainly aimed at high-spending corporate accounts, there’s plenty to be had for the layman without breaking the bank”. Top Menu Tip – “Rabbit terrine starter, stuffed with pistachio nuts, and with a little mustard… excellent!”

Operating to a no-frills “time-tested formula – How do you like your meat cooked? Would you like red or white wine?” – this Paris-based operation offers an “excellent, no-choice menu of salad, steak & frites, all of which are delicious” and “at an extremely good price (including a second helping if you’d like one)”. There’s “no booking and a permanent queue” at the two London branches (Marylebone and the City), so “get there early” for an “unbeatable meat fix”. “What’s in the addictive secret sauce?” – “who cares when it works so well!”

Solid bastion of City life that has provided a “slice of France with the usual French flair” for four decades, along with service that is “excellent given how busy they are”. On the upper floor of the wrought-iron Leadenhall Market, it makes an “always reliable choice for a work lunch or dinner in the Square Mile”.

“Luxurious decor, booths and the infamous ‘Press for Champagne’ button by the table, make it all feel quite Russian oligarchy” at Leonid Shutov’s “fun”, “blingy and gimmicky” Soho diner, which feels a bit like a stage set for ‘The Orient Express’. It also has a less commented-on sibling in the City’s ‘Cheesegrater’ building, decked out in a similar but more glossy style, which puts a Bladerunner-esque spin on the theme suited to its skyscraper setting. Both offer privacy and a supremely cosetting setting and are often tipped for special dates or less-formal business entertaining. “The menu likewise has oligarch vibes, with the likes of caviar, vodka shots, oysters and truffles, but this is alongside a great mix of comfort food like pie, chicken Kyiv, and mac ’n’ cheese”. On balance, the food is judged “well-executed” but even so fans can still feel that “some items are highly priced for what they are”. Top Menu Tips – “the real reason to go is the beef Wellington… utterly delicious, cooked perfectly and a generous portion”. Also “fine wine mark-ups are capped at £75” – so if you push the boat out enough it can be a relative bargain!