Rickmansworth, French Restaurant Guide

This “lovely old pub” in the Chilterns, handy for the Harry Potter antics at Warner Bros Studio nearby, built up quite a reputation for its Anglo-French cooking over nearly two decades under husband-and-wife team Sally & Alvin Michaels. The 18th-century venue is now managed by Alvin’s former protégé Matt Jackson (and part of the growing RedCat pub company) but, on limited feedback this year, its “exceptional pub dining” still makes it a local magnet.

Reporters “love this riverside, upmarket bistro which delivers a fabulous location, professional service and simple but well-cooked dishes”. Given its starry pedigree – it was relaunched as a Gallic restaurant by hospitality royalty Alain Roux and late father Michel Roux Sr in 2017 – and also given that it’s in a “well-heeled part of West London suburbia, it represents decent value” too (especially taking into account that it has “that elusive ingredient, the ‘feel-good’ factor”). (The site has an interesting history as one of the world’s top nightclubs in the 1970s, when folks like John and Yoko would party the night away).

You could be in ‘La France profonde’ at this “great neighbourhood restaurant” by distant Acton Green. Foodwise, it’s “more than a bistro – this is seriously good classical French cooking, more than worth the detour”. There’s “no greedy pricing, even on the wine”, and “if it feels a bit old-fashioned, that’s attractive in this era of chef worship and cult-like trends!”. Top Menu Tip – “the cheese soufflé is a must every visit”.

“A masterpiece of impeccable food and service” – Alain Roux is doing a fine job of steering the Thames-side flagship of the Roux culinary dynasty, founded by his late father Michel in 1972. It is one of the top-10 most commented-on destinations outside London in our annual diners’ poll and ratings were off-the-charts good this year, with it delivering “everything you would expect from a three Michelin star restaurant”. “This is formal fine-dining at its best” (jackets must be worn and sportswear is not permitted), with staff who “manage to make your experience feel individual and very special”. Of course, there’s a “price tag to match”, but even those who complain on this score (and a fair number do) generally go on to say something along the lines of: “even though I wouldn’t say it was quite worth it, it is a superb destination, even if you actually only go once, or just once a year for that (very) special occasion”. (The late Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary here). There is a tasting menu as well as the à la carte, but at heart this is utterly classic French cuisine, with dishes such as: ‘Tartare et queues de langoustines d’Ecosse, caviar osciètre, macédoine de légumes au raifort et émulsion à l’estragon’. Especially in summer, it’s “a lovely setting too”, with pre-dinner fizz out on the terrace. “Superlative every time”. “A real gastronomic experience”.

East Finchley is “so lucky to have this hidden high-street gem” – one of north London’s more popular and “welcoming” local restaurants “serving delicious, well cooked food” from a resolutely French menu. Top Tip – “the three-course set lunch is a wonderful bargain”.

“Authentically Gallic bistro” near Kew station that’s built a strong following over 16 years for its competitively priced “French classics”. The retro 1950s styling – all gingham tablecloths and Impressionist posters – is part of the appeal. Top Tip – “good-value set lunch”.

“Consistently good food and a lovely atmosphere” backed up by “intelligently engaged and well-informed service” deliver everything you could reasonably expect from this handsome Georgian tavern in Hampstead, run for more than 20 years by Beth Coventry (sister of Fay Maschler, the doyenne of London restaurant critics). “The pub’s keenness to welcome dogs (with their own menu) may divide opinion” – but also wins many friends. Top Menu Tip – “save room for dessert; it’s sometimes the star of the show”.

“Combining the best of French and Italian gastronomy” – Emily Roux and her husband Diego Ferrari continue to put in an assured performance at their “lovely neighbourhood restaurant” in Notting Hill. The cuisine is of “excellent quality”, yet not particularly striving for its own sake: aptly described in one report as “enjoyable fine dining, comfort dishes”. You can either opt for à la carte – three courses for £92 per person – or go for a five-course ‘Build Your Own Tasting Menu’ option at £120 per person. “Simply divine: expensive but worth it!”

La Patronne, Catherine Parisot, was just in her twenties when she started this “lovely” old-fashioned charmer in St John’s Wood and has run it for over 43 years now. A very loyal clientele from all over London has discovered it over the years, and for them it’s a huge “favourite” that’s particularly “perfect for evenings ‘à deux’”. Her classic ‘cuisine bourgeoise’ is “old-fashioned French cooking at its best (you would struggle to match it in France)”; and features “a number of staples on the menu that have been on forever (her pea soup is unbeatable!”). Its ratings no longer scale the pinnacles they did some years ago, but the overall tenor of reports remains overwhelmingly positive: “so French, perfect food, perfect service, I love it!”

“Is the Michelin Guide having a laugh” – incomprehension remains a key feature in feedback regarding the two-star status of this Thames Valley pub, whose elevation by the Red Guide in 2012 propelled chef-patron Tom Kerridge to media stardom. There’s no denying it does have its supporters, who say it’s “worth the drive” for “a brilliant experience with imaginative interpretation of pub food and a decent pint beforehand too”. But, given that it is one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll, it is striking that not a single reporter this year nominated it for their best meal of the year. More eye-catching are the one in three for whom it’s “too expensive by a mile”, with “variable” cooking and service that can seem “rushed”. In particular, a number of former fans just say it’s “not the restaurant it used to be”: “It’s a pub that wants to be a restaurant that wants to be a pub. Overpriced, overhyped. (Not sure why it is still relevant. Was great 12 years or so ago: now it’s just lost its momentum and identity)”. Top Tip – if you want to make up your own mind, a visit in the evening or Sunday lunch will set you back £175 per person. But the set weekday lunch is £48 per person for two-courses and £55 per person for three-courses. Quite a saving!

Simon & Jacinta Bradley’s “reliable neighbourhood restaurant” near Swiss Cottage station is one of the capital’s stalwart local champions, offering an unfailing combination of “well-presented dishes, friendly service and well chosen wines” for 32 years and counting. “Rarely busy at lunchtime”, it’s also a “very useful pre-theatre restaurant” for those heading to the Hampstead Theatre around the corner. Ratings, though, remain capped by those who view it as “a venue that’s convenient but dull”.

“A decent attempt to reproduce Provençal cooking in Shepherd’s Bush”: Lawrence & Emily Hartley’s “nice local bistro” north of Brook Green – “a successor to a spot that was Café Rouge for many years” (and briefly Mustard, RIP) – provides “French classics” with “friendly service”. Critics feel that at times, “the food, though fairly authentic, can be just a bit underwhelming”; but the majority see “much to recommend the place” and feel it’s a “welcome venture” in this underserved neck of the woods. Top Tip – “good set menu”.

This “excellent, family-friendly creperie” “overlooking the river” built a solid local following for its Breton cuisine under Lindsay Wotton, who sold up last year to retire after 35 years. Thus far, the new owners have maintained standards and changed little, with “good-value lunch specials, especially strong on the fish dishes” still getting the nod.

Quaint, old-fashioned decor lends a “special” atmosphere to this “small neighbourhood restaurant” in St Margaret’s. It’s resolutely French in style, providing “good portions of excellent food” from a traditional menu, whose top features are a Plat de Fruits de Mer and 28-day aged Châteaubriand, both for £80. Be warned, though, “it gets extremely busy around rugby matches at Twickenham”.

“Food with outstanding provenance and in generous portions” delivered with service that’s “friendly and professional” wins ongoing praise from a small but dedicated fan club of Richard Wilkins’s small corner-restaurant on the border between Notting Hill and Bayswater (which seats 16 at maximum capacity). The restaurant’s website recommends that you allow three hours for its ‘carte blanche tasting menu’.

This “hidden gem” of a wine bar, “tucked away in the stuccoed splendour of Westbourne Park”, serves “sophisticated French food” in tapas-size portions and “good (if expensive) wines” in “stylish yet cosy” surroundings, with exposed brickwork and wooden tables .

“An impressive and speedy pre-theatre set meal at the SE1 branch…”; “Reliable for quick lunch, and always has a discount…”; “Great Sunday lunch and a warm welcome for the children…” – at its best, this classic Gallic group is “a decent chain serving popular brasserie fare to a fair standard and with a pleasing bustle”. But there is a sharp disparity between its overall marks – which are average-to-low – and the celebrity of its backer; and one harsh diner’s comment carries with it a ring of truth: “I cannot reconcile how Raymond Blanc can live with his continued, if hands-off, connection with this creation. The accountants rule, menus are static and unadventurous; and standards vary between branches and visits; but it is many years since a visit was truly satisfying”.

“Oslo Court is one of a kind” and “still going strong after 40 years” at the foot of an apartment block north of Regent’s Park. “Old School in the extreme”, it’s a “classic that never goes out of fashion”… at least if your idea of ‘classic’ is drawn from the era of the mid-1970s. “From the peach tablecloths to the generous servings of melba toast, butter curls and crudités, it’s like going back in time… in a good way. Staff make you feel very special, the whole experience is warm and fun and the classic cooking is great”, so long as you are looking for the antithesis of modern food fashion. “The menu is incredibly large and there’s a long list of specials too” (remember Avocado & Prawns? Or Melon with Parma Ham? Dover Sole Véronique?). “Bring an appetite” as “portions are excellent”. Also, go in festive mood: seemingly everyone over the age of 80 in north London is there to celebrate an occasion (“I lost count of how many times Happy Birthday was sung at lunch last Saturday.”). Top Tip – “the waiter who has been there years still serves the best desserts”.