Harden's survey result
“Heaven on earth” – Alain Roux’s “superlative” institution is, for very many reporters, the country’s leading temple of classic Gallic gastronomy. It helps it has a “gorgeous” Thames-side setting, with the possibility of starting off a summer meal with a glass of fizz and canapés on the beautiful outside terrace (or even a quick spin down the river in the restaurant’s private launch). “The Roux chef who shuns the media produces traditional cuisine, but modernised to be lighter and healthier” [well, somewhat]. “It is a conservatively-slanted menu so there were no fireworks or innovation in terms of the dishes, but the quality of ingredients are second to none on earth” and results are “simply stunning”. Unfortunately so are the prices – it is “frighteningly expensive” (and it is worth noting that the ‘rapport prix/qualité’ was questioned a bit more often this year). Intrinsic to the experience is the “unparalleled” service from “some of the best staff in hospitality” – a team that “has no swagger, but is all class” (“an astounding feeling of style, without being overbearing or pompous”). In May 2018 as our survey was concluding, Diego Masciaga, part of the fixtures and fittings for the last 30 years and probably the most popular maitre d’ in the UK retired, leaving Frédéric Poulette the unenviable task of following in his footsteps.
A leading light in the UK’s gastronomic constellation since it first opened in 1972 – this famous Thames-sider (a favourite of the Royal Family) is run nowadays by Alain Roux (with father, Michel, still sometimes popping up in the dining room). “Swans are usually in view” in its “glorious” and “peaceful” riverside location, and in particular the location is “unsurpassable on a warm evening in summer”, when a meal typically starts off with a glass of champagne on the terrace, or even a jaunt in the restaurant’s private launch. The meal itself at any time of year takes place in a plush conservatory overlooking the river. Stylewise, you could be in rural France, and to some tastes this classic temple of Gallic gastronomy “feels a bit of a time warp” with perennial calls in some quarters for “a bit more risk and creativity” in the cuisine. For the vast majority of reporters however, the overriding impression is that “attention to detail is a way of life here”, with the kitchen’s “classical French perfection” judged “absolutely outstanding in every way”, and service likewise – overseen by long-term general manager Diego Masciaga is “unmatched”.
“On a fine summer’s day, nothing can be more enchanting” than Alain Roux’s Thames-side epic (founded in 1972 by his father Michel), whether you are “sipping pre-dinner cocktails on their electric launch (and looking forward to a sumptuous meal after you glide back to the dock)”, or “sitting under the willow tree watching the boats go by as you sip a vintage champagne”. A further boost is provided by its “absolutely impeccable” service (“nobody runs a better dining room than maître d’ Diego!”). When it comes to the classic haute cuisine, however, there seemed to be “a number of question marks” this year and its rating sipped a notch; it has always been “eye-wateringly expensive”, but even some who praise the food as “exquisite” can also find it “unimaginative” or “dated” in style (“like taking a time machine back to the ’80s”). That’s still a minority view however; on the vast majority of accounts this is a case of “perfect food in a perfect setting”.
“Perfect in every way!” – Alain Roux’s “heavenly” Thames-side legend is at “the very pinnacle of classic French cuisine” (“with a few modern, but unpretentious twists along the way”). Aperitifs on the terrace in summer are a particular highlight, but the “elegant”, if “slightly old-school” setting is also “wonderful in winter”, and the ambience is enhanced by the impeccably well-judged service led by “masterful maître d’ Diego”. “Your plastic needs a very high melting point” to cope with the “toe-curling prices”, but for the vast majority of reporters “it’s a spectacular experience for your bank account to die for”.
Waterside Inn Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Food is still great although on the first day of the new Summer Menu we found the salt a little overused and the combinations a little less wow than normal. Service whilst still formal has dropped a notch with serviettes not being handed to guests, a plate being taken away before others had finished eating etc. Diego was an impossible act to follow but Waterside will need to keep on their toes if they are to maintain their triple 5 ratings."
"Total dining excellence"
|Wine per bottle||£30.00|
Ferry Rd, Bray, SL6 2AT
|Wednesday||12 pm-2 pm, 7 pm-10 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm-2 pm, 7 pm-10 pm|
|Friday||12 pm-2 pm, 7 pm-10 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm-2 pm, 7 pm-10 pm|
|Sunday||12 pm-2 pm, 7 pm-10 pm|