City, Pizza Restaurant Guide

“Fantastic pizza that’s good value” continues to win praise for Alan & Mark Wogan’s (the sons of the late Sir Terry) three-strong chain in Neal’s Yard (the original), Marylebone and the City. The 20-inch pizzas are enough to feed 2-3 people and flavours can be split 50/50.

“Sneakily good pizza” – double-fermented Neapolitan-style – ensure that many branches are “always packed” at the Elliot brothers’ still-expanding chain, whose new summer 2025 opening at the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane marked a return to the site of one of their earliest pop-ups in 2013. Nowadays, it’s one of the more commented-on multiples in our annual diners’ poll. Top Menu Tip – “pepperoni and honey!”

“Sneakily good pizza” – double-fermented Neapolitan-style – ensure that many branches are “always packed” at the Elliot brothers’ still-expanding chain, whose new summer 2025 opening at the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane marked a return to the site of one of their earliest pop-ups in 2013. Nowadays, it’s one of the more commented-on multiples in our annual diners’ poll. Top Menu Tip – “pepperoni and honey!”

“Delicious and innovative pizzas” using seawater (said to produce a lighter, more natural-tasting dough) is the USP of this smart Italian duo near Borough Market and in St James’s. They also provide “excellent fresh pasta” and “great service” – “the only downside is the noise”.

“Lively Italian” near Farringdon serving “good pizza” and “with some slightly offbeat dishes”, plus “an excellent and not too pricey wine list” (including a notably strong selection from the south of Italy). It’s a “friendly, now often bustling, place” which is for many “a go-to in the Barbican/West Smithfield area”.

Oscar Farinetti’s “Italian superstore” near Liverpool Street station – part of his 45-strong global foodhall chain – is a “great place to eat and buy Italian foods”, with a “massive display of Italian wines”. A recent link-up with Milan-based TV chef Carlo Cracco, whose name is now above the flagship restaurant Terra, has done little, however, to change the perception that this is a venue for browsing “interesting Italian products” rather than lingering over a meal – and those who do eat tend to prefer the “very good pizzas from a wood-burning stove” to more ambitious meals that can be “a poor and expensive experience”: “although ingredients are good, cooking is below average”, while “the terrace overlooks the Bishopsgate traffic, so you can soak up the City’s busy atmosphere… police sirens and all”.

“Barmy and OTT”: Paris-based Big Mamma Group’s original London venue brings a “great fun” cod-Italian vibe to Shoreditch (“think a full-mirrored ceiling” plus foliage and Capri-comes-to- Commercial Street knick-knacks) – “teens (and older types) love it”. If the food is only “so-so”, that hardly matters – the pizza and pasta go down well, while “the desserts look like something Marie Antoinette would order”.

“Still our pizza favourite no matter how successful and busy they get… the black dough even makes you feel you’re eating healthy!” – this eight-strong chain has grown from its Islington base over the last ten years (est. 2016) and its successful formula revolves around four 48-hour slow-fermented doughs – charcoal, wholemeal, gluten-free and traditional. Of these the first is the most eye-catching: “interesting charcoal-based pizza with delicious toppings”. The original N7 branch near Arsenal and the W14 one (they call it ‘Hammersmith’ but it’s closer to Olympia) attract most feedback, but it’s the food that wins fans: for example, “the original one feels buzzy when Arsenal play at home when it’s packed out, but otherwise can feel a bit grim and loveless”.

“Such a good pizza… and lovely Bloody Marys”, say fans of this “very cool spot”, on the ground floor of the iconic Tea Building in Shoreditch (the bar is in the basement). Originally opened by the Soho House group, it was snapped up by Gordon Ramsay in 2023, and he has since added a second branch within his Bread Street Kitchen in Stratford. Top Tip – “works well for big groups”.

“Sneakily good pizza” – double-fermented Neapolitan-style – ensure that many branches are “always packed” at the Elliot brothers’ still-expanding chain, whose new summer 2025 opening at the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane marked a return to the site of one of their earliest pop-ups in 2013. Nowadays, it’s one of the more commented-on multiples in our annual diners’ poll. Top Menu Tip – “pepperoni and honey!”

“Fantastic pizza that’s good value” continues to win praise for Alan & Mark Wogan’s (the sons of the late Sir Terry) three-strong chain in Neal’s Yard (the original), Marylebone and the City. The 20-inch pizzas are enough to feed 2-3 people and flavours can be split 50/50.

2022 Review: Grab and go at this new brand from Pizza Pilgrims where you can order New-York-style 12-inch pizza – available whole or in slices (in five flavours) – or pizza by the metre. Wash them down with alcoholic slushies and to kill any spare time there are ’80s-style arcade games.

“Sneakily good pizza” – double-fermented Neapolitan-style – ensure that many branches are “always packed” at the Elliot brothers’ still-expanding chain, whose new summer 2025 opening at the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane marked a return to the site of one of their earliest pop-ups in 2013. Nowadays, it’s one of the more commented-on multiples in our annual diners’ poll. Top Menu Tip – “pepperoni and honey!”

2023 Review: “Always fresh sourdough pizza” has helped build a strong local following for this hip southeast London group, with outlets in Crystal Palace, Nunhead, West Norwood, Herne Hill and Elephant & Castle. A new natural wine selection from specialist importer Les Caves de Pyrène is now available alongside the craft beers on tap. Top Tip – “make sure you leave room for the ice cream”.

“Mad but fun… and actually pretty decent food!” – that’s the verdict of the young-at-heart (including parents with youngsters to entertain) after a visit to Big Mamma group’s huge and dramatic mock-Italian in Covent Garden, whose stagey interiors (complete with 6m ceiling and 3,500 bottles lining the walls) are designed with Insta in mind. The menu is mostly pizza and pasta (the latter includes a Spaghetti Carbonara option served in a 4kg pecorino wheel).

“Proper steak venues” with “fantastic prime cuts for sharing” is how fans applaud Neil Rankin’s cocktail-fueled smokehouses: vibrant hang-outs featuring live-fire BBQ in the open kitchens that form the heart of each outlet (and with a selection of taco platters backing up the menu’s core of smoked meat dishes). Ratings have varied of late, though, and Paddington and Shoreditch branches closed in autumn 2024, now leaving only Soho, Covent Garden and the City. Top Tips – look out for Bottomless brunch deals; and the £15 steak frites lunchtime offer (in Covent Garden only).