City, Peruvian Restaurant Guide

“Excellent ceviche” and “amazing cocktails” take top billing at Arjun Waney’s vibey Peruvian operation, which has branches in Mayfair and the City, as well Paris, Marbella, Mykonos and the Middle East. There remains an undercurrent of feeling that it’s “over-priced”, but the overall verdict is that “the food is great!”

“Horribly overpriced but love the atmosphere” – to cut to the chase, that’s the key take-away on this duo of Japanese/South American fusion outfits: part of a slick US-chain originating in NYC 25 years ago, and now with branches from Singapore to Las Vegas, via the Middle East. The WC2 branch sits on top of Covent Garden with exceptional views over to the Royal Opera House, although (for our money) it’s the City original – up fast lifts on the 38th floor of the Heron Tower with fancy cocktail lounges and stunning views – that really stands out. The food – an eclectic Nikkei mashup incorporating tempura, crispy taquitos, samba rolls, sushi, robata dishes and large plates – is delicious but ultimately “nothing to write home about” when you consider the gargantuan cost.

Hip import from Booklyn, which is the latest incumbent on the gorgeously decorated rooftop of Shoreditch’s ‘Hoxton Hotel’, where the city-fringe viewscape is of The Barbican and Square Mile. The press have by-and-large raved since it touched down in autumn 2023, with The Evening Standard’s Jimi Famurewa hailing the “thrilling new context” given to its Peruvian dishes, and The Telegraph’s William Sitwell branding it “the best thing to come out of Peru since Paddington”. But our annual survey is less impressed, noting that – especially at the price – its Nikkei/Latino dishes can seem “disappointing”: “a great social media campaign doesn’t make a great restaurant!”

On quite a prominent site near St James’s Palace that used to be Avenue (RIP), this new entertainment-led venue is part of a nightlife group with operations in London and Mykonos. Here, we are promised Nikkei cuisine, with ‘hero’ dishes such as Butter Roasted Chilean Sea Bass with Coriander Shiso Ponzu and Lamb Chops Anticucho with Aubergine Purée, Aji and Amarillo Yoghurt.