Chigwell, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“Tom Brown’s single-minded passion for fish and seafood shines through” at his “mecca of fine dining” – a post-industrial space “tucked away not far from the canal” in “wondrously trendy Hackney Wick”. “We love its informality and the friendliness of the staff” who give “detailed descriptions explaining the provenance of each dish” from “a stunning menu”. “So, get your skinny jeans on, tousle that beard (man bun optional) and go!” Top Menu Tip – “fabulous crab bun with pear hoisin”; “shrimps in a sort of panna cotta, decorated with sprouting herbs and vegetables… inspired”.

2021 Review: This in-house restaurant of the famous smoked salmon smokery (est. 1905) on the River Lea is a “lovely place to eat the best smoked fish, with a great view” – in fact, two views: from a viewing gallery over the smokery, and across to the Olympic stadium next door. For West Ham fans, it’s ideal for a pre-match lunch; for everybody else, “a bit out of the way, but worth the schlep”.

“Wow!” “Andy Beynon continues to produce superb, good-value cuisine in a relaxed and intimate setting” at his small venue, near London Fields: “an immersive experience, where the chefs prepare the food around you as you sit at the bar”. “There are no waiters: the chefs cover service, chat about the food and ferry each new course from the nearby open preparation areas”; and the team gives the impression of being “super keen and far from weary, jaded or sitting on their laurels”. “Sustainable fish is the clear focus here, and everything is on point in each exceptional dish”.

“In the heart of Essex, this fabulous fish restaurant” (est. 2010, and revolving around the “plush conversion of an old pub”) “offers amazing dishes and attentive service in a truly beautiful setting”. “It can be fun watching the TOWIE types amongst fellow diners”, but if that loses its appeal, divert your eyes to the “pleasant views from the terrace on a sunny day”.

“Incredible seafood in the most unique of settings” inspires outstanding feedback on chef Leandro Carreira and restaurateur Alex Hunter’s “amazing and inventive” 14-seater chef’s table experience under Haggerston railway arches, where the moodily-lit counter looks onto the gleaming open kitchen. A 12-course tasting menu involving every type of sustainable sea creature is presented at £150 per person. (Very good all-round ratings too for the original branch – a simpler and cheaper seafood bar in the bouji backstreets, off Sloane Street).

This “brilliant, buzzy local seafood restaurant” is much-loved in Crouch End and beyond for its “exciting, high-quality dishes from a short menu” and “exceptionally friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff”. It works equally well for a meal with a large group or a “snack at the bar”.

This 10-year-old fishmonger-turned-restaurant near Highbury Corner is a “great all-rounder”, with “fresh fish” from Devon or Cornwall (it has another branch in Padstow) “often cooked originally”. Even after a move to “slightly larger premises on St Paul’s Road” it’s still “a simple space, so the ambience is not highly rated given the expense” – “shame it’s so small that you can’t always get a booking”.

2022 Review: Hipster haunt, Ace Hotel Shoreditch – and its restaurant Hoi Polloi (RIP) – have gone, but this new Lore Group (Sea Containers et al) opening in autumn 2021 is stepping into its boots and aiming to boost appeal with an expanded rooftop bar and terrace (panoramic views of East London), and a restaurant and wine bar specialising in sustainably sourced seafood. It being EC2, there’s even going to be a take-out hatch (that’s a sign of groovy sophistication these days, apparently…)

“Sensationally good grilled plaice” and the “freshest fish and prawns” help make this 55-year-old north London chippy a “favourite place to go to be cheered up” (“my partner and I think it’s well worth catching the two buses needed to get there!”). “Snooker legend Ronnie O’Sullivan is known to frequent it when playing in the Masters Championships at nearby Ally Pally”. Top Menu Tip – “always order the delicious Greek salad, with the family’s own-recipe dressing”.

This “authentic chippy” in Clerkenwell – a Greek-Cypriot family-run veteran of more than 50 years’ standing – scores well for its “excellent fish” and “warm, humorous service”.

“Fine fish, delicately cooked and served” is the speciality at this “smart modern restaurant on the top floor of a hotel” near Broadgate, from D&D London. Food of this standard is rare in the City, and “not even the dullest business chat can take the edge off the outstanding cooking and wines”. It’s a discreet place, too, “and the team knows when to shoot the breeze with diners and when to withdraw to let the serious negotiations take place”.

“A top selection of fish” – “simple and so fresh” – is served at this smart, white-tablecloth restaurant in a “fantastic setting, on the Thames at Wapping, with great views of Tower Bridge”. “Service is slick and the atmosphere reflects the bright, buzzy feel of the whole place”. The only drawback is that “it’s always full and difficult to get into”. The original Smith’s was founded 66 years ago in Ongar, Essex.

“Is this what business lunching was like 50 year ago?” – this “elegant and wood-panelled” steakhouse, “hidden away in the vast opulence of the Ned” (itself the former Midland Bank HQ) “always impresses a client” with its “wonderful club-like atmosphere”, “the smell of leather and the feeling of luxury” (it’s where “old-school stockbroker dining meets Wolf of Wall Street”). “Power lunches abound within a serene ambience” – “the food leans heavily towards meat with beef Wellington a highlight”.