Cambridgeshire Restaurant Guide

In April 2019, former MasterChef finalist Alex Rushmer, who closed his Cambridge restaurant Hole in the Wall in 2017, took over a former Subway shop a little outside the city centre, with his former sous chef, Lawrence Butler. Focusing on local, ethical food, it offers a fixed five-course vegetarian menu which changes daily and features a chef’s table where diners sit at a countertop pass for four with views over the open kitchen. Its fanclub is still small as things stand but couldn’t rate it more highly, saying its “very inventive non-meat cuisine” is “well-sourced and just perfect”. Don’t plan on dropping in though: bookings are released on the first Thursday of the month, two months in advance!

“Amazing… every time” is still the most typical assessment of this acclaimed Victorian villa – one of the UK’s most renowned eateries – which is very picturesquely situated across the Cam from the Varsity’s boat houses and bordering Midsummer Common. Daniel Clifford and his team deliver “a superb overall dining experience: the number and quality of amuse-bouches, the sourdough bread, each individual course… the service… all of the highest order”. Even many fans feel that the “exuberant bill is hard to justify”, however, and to its critics the “staggering costs” are plain OTT, with toppish wine prices a particular gripe (“some more reasonable ‘house’ options would be welcome”).

For “understated excellence in all categories”, Hans Schweitzer’s accomplished outfit – which relocated to the Gonville Hotel in 2017 – is “always a must”; “if there is a downside it’s the relatively few choices available” on the menu, but beyond that everything is “absolutely exquisite” (and of a classical bent).

“Beautiful home-cooked food” has been on the menu of this real “long-time favourite” since 1968, when owner Ann Jarman opened an “informal” restaurant and art gallery with two friends in this Georgian house with a large walled garden near the cathedral. (“A diner at a table nearby had ham, jacket potato and salad. The ham looked to be real ham, and he was offered more meat if he wanted it. My husband had an amazing bakewell tart, with very light pastry and a lovely almond flavour”).

“The food is fine, though perhaps not exceptional”, at this “very professional hotel restaurant”, but “the wine list is incredible” – “selected by proprietor John Hoskins, Master of Wine”, who also runs the in-house vintner’s: there are “some real gems at very fair prices”, along with “a remarkable number of lovely and interesting wines by the glass”.

“Modern cuisine using local seasonal produce” wins plaudits for chef-owner Calvin Holland at this upscale village pub. “Surprising and innovative” dishes from the tasting menu sit alongside “simple steak and fish dishes for more traditional diners”. “A recent refurb has created a relaxed seating area where you can enjoy a drink before and after eating”.