Berwick, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2022 Review: “Recently opened of all places in a retirement village” – a modern development of 64 apartments in Redland – “but open to the public”: this September 2020 newcomer is run by local caterers CleverChefs and occupies a light-filled space with open kitchen overlooking an arboretum garden. Open from breakfast and throughout the day, it wins strong early feedback for “assured cooking at reasonable prices”.

2020 Review: “Elegant and imaginative cuisine” and an excellent standard of service again won nothing but rave reviews for James Wilkins & Christine Vayssade’s small restaurant in a Redland sidestreet, whose ambiance was “greatly improved” a couple of years ago “with a new feature street-art wall and intimate décor”. But in October 2019, the pair put it up for sale in order to pursue an opportunity overseas: hence we’ve removed the rating for now.

“A combination of casual style and fine dining” – Jan Ostle & Mary Wilson’s modern bistro in Redland is “well worth seeking out” for the “always excellent, ethically unquestionable” cooking (much of it using home-grown produce) that they’re “always pushing to improve”. “The food is most definitely refined but the venue, a small Victorian shop in a shabby-chic part of Bristol, is relaxed and the vibe is more cafe than restaurant”. “At lunchtime, you can opt for a cut-down tasting menu which is great value at this level”.

“Standards remain consistently high” at this Redland boozer – “part of the Pony and Trap Group” and offering “a step above pub food” (though not straying from the classics and laying on proper Sunday roasts). Top Tip – “there are two rooms upstairs you can have for exclusive use of groups”.

It’s “slightly surreal watching swimmers while eating a selection of Mediterranean/Middle Eastern tapas” at this restored Grade II-listed mid-Victorian swimming pool in Clifton, which offers a “warm welcome and some very accommodating touches”. “Great breakfasts and small plates” are available poolside and fuller meals served upstairs, with windows overlooking the pool. “Overall it’s pleasant but not perhaps memorable”.

“Outstanding food” – “both interesting and tasty” – is on the menu at this small independent in Stokes Croft from founders who cut their teeth at the late, lamented Wallfish Bistro, Craig Summers & part-time actor Giles Coram. “Don’t like crab in general but months later I’ve not forgotten the race to extract as much tasty buttery goodness as possible before the plate was taken away!”

2021 Review: “Better food than expected” is to be discovered in this striking, light-filled (perhaps “noisy”) space – part of the recent £25m renovation of the UK’s oldest theatre, dating back to, er, see if you can guess. Open all day until an hour after the last evening performance, it aims to be a community hub, serving a menu devised by head chef Coco Barone (ex-Glassboat and Rosemarino). There are also pre-theatre deals, obvs.

Olivia Barry and Jamie Randall opened this straightforward-looking but ambitious venue in Queen’s Quay in 2015, building on their experience in top London restaurants such as Odette’s and Murano. A nine-course tasting menu is £70 per person (with matching wine flight for £60). Too limited feedback this year for a rating, but such as we have applauds “a great treat with welcoming service, lovely food and some interesting wines”.

2022 Review: In the unusual and attractive setting of a former river-police station, “this long-established dockside restaurant still continues to offer value and quality, despite the change in ownership a few years ago (to Youngs)”, although nowadays in a much less foodie vein than in its heyday over 20 years ago. As of a 2018 refit, diners can opt for the Pontoon Bar, a popular brunch/lunch haunt, while upstairs “pre-theatre meals are also popular”.

2022 Review: This “wonderful steakhouse (which also does an exceptional Sunday lunch)” was opened by former Jamie Oliver chef-director Sam Elliott three years ago in a spruced-up Victorian warehouse, opposite St Mary Redcliffe church, and serves impressive cuts of West Country beef displayed in chiller cabinets, alongside vegetables and fruit from is own farm. It’s already made a big impact on the local dining scene, and has spawned a spinoff in Cardiff.

“Small restaurant – great food”; that’s still the deal at Elliott Lidstone’s 14-seaters in two shipping containers at Bristol harbour’s Cargo development. There’s an à la carte menu of affordable modern bistro cooking, or you can go the whole hog and opt for their seven-course unwritten tasting menu, which costs £55 per person (with optional wine flight at £40 a head).

“A container with a terrace” on the docks which, despite not being strictly veggie, “elevates even the humblest of veg to mouth-watering delights”. In December 2022, chef Rob Howell and partner Megan Oakley (ex-of the Pony & Trap) launched a sister restaurant, Root Wells, in Wells, Somerset, following the same ‘more veg, less meat’ ethos.

This “delightful genuine neighbourhood restaurant” on a quiet street corner in Southville is “almost perfect – unpretentious, effortless and with sublime food and drinks”. Launched after lockdown, it serves a “delicious Italian-inspired menu” from chef-owner Pegs Quinn, who spent four years at the famous River Café, while his wife Mary Glynn ensures a “friendly and welcoming service, so it’s like being a guest in someone’s home”. “The room is nothing to speak of but that doesn’t matter as it’s about the conviviality and the awesome cooking”.

2022 Review: The team from the former Pony & Trap in Chew Magna – nowadays The Pony Chew Valley – opened for the first time in Bristol with this new venture in May 2021 (rather late in the day to inspire survey feedback). The menu features dishes cooked over open fire from chef Hugo Harvey. But the ‘bistro’ appellation seems a bit of a misnomer, as the only evening option (there is a cut-down lunch alternative) is a 4-course menu and you need to pay up-front if you book in advance (which is the presumption).

2022 Review: Opened in June 2021, this tastefully revamped old pub is the work of the Eggleton family – the team behind The Pony & Trap (now known as The Pony Chew Magna). The offering, realised by chef Jordan Meagher, “centres around proper ‘pub classics’”.

2023 Review: “Fantastic for a foodie weekend” – this comfortably boho country-house hotel in the Mendip Hills from the Pig group owes its vibe to the shabby-chic interior designed by Judy Hutson, wife of Robin Hutson (ex-Hotel du Vin and Soho House) who founded the chain a dozen years ago with backing from Ineos billionaire Jim Ratcliffe. The 25-mile kitchen sourcing regime results in some “amazing local ingredients” on the table.