Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 20 October 2019. Pilgrim, Liverpool For Grace Dent of The Guardian, “2019 has been a year of loitering confusedly in food halls, gob ajar, trying to decipher where one eats, sits, orders and pays”. Her latest (but less confused) visit was to Duke […]

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Chef Hélène Darroze has launched a new menu at The Connaught, marking what the hotel has called “a new chapter”. This month, the restaurant reopens its doors “after an extensive, two-month, full refurbishment and modernisation”. The menu has been overhauled by Darroze, who has introduced changing tasting menus. The wine list has also been improved. […]

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