Strand, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Proper old-school dining and a style of service rarely found nowadays” maintains the highest enthusiasm for London’s oldest restaurant: on this site in Covent Garden since 1798, and with “beautiful olde worlde decor” that looks like you’ve just “stepped back in time” to the era of Dickens, complete with “lovely wood panels and old paintings adorning the walls”. Of course the tourists flock, especially Yanks, and have for decades – get over it: it’s still an annual “tried and trusted” treat for many locals who “make an annual pilgrimage and hope the traditions remain for the next generation”. Its “seasonal, rich and wonderfully hearty British cooking” has proved of remarkably enduring quality over many years: “the beef pudding with an oyster? yes please, it’s is as good as it gets” (“superb, suet-encased, served with extra gravy”); and “the game in season is always good if a bit expensive” (e.g. “half a tender and flavourful roast partridge with bread sauce”). Top Tip – there’s also “a super bar upstairs that too many customers ignore”; “a favourite spot for a proper Black Velvet: that magical mix of champagne and Guinness devised during the time when Queen Victoria was in mourning”.

“Hidden away in a basement at the side of Leicester Square”, “a marvellous little subterranean wine bar with a decent selection of mid-range wines that are not too overpriced for central London”. A “wide-ranging” food menu (including the famous ham-and-cheese pie that has been on the menu since 1971, of which about 1,000,000 portions have been sold) makes it a “great pitstop in tourist central – happily off the radar for most of them”. “You can’t drink in this place without feeling part of the iconic venue’s history”: its “tried and tested reputation” was established by founder Don Hewitson and is maintained by his successor Will Clayton.

A prime power-dining scene of yesteryear (where Lady Thatcher and her favourite tycoon, Lord Hanson would wine and dine in the 1980s), this panelled Art Deco chamber just off the foyer of the famous hotel remains a favourite with expense-accounters: “it’s definitely a restaurant to take guests who need impressing, with lovely, well-spaced tables and banquettes”. Run by Gordon Ramsay for most of the 2000s, its “first-class” traditional cooking is “wonderful” according to fans, but even they acknowledge that “it does seem to be overpriced for what it is”, and for a large band of critics it “doesn’t really deliver on its promise”. Top Menu Tip – “excellent Beef Wellington”.

Autumn 2024 has become autumn 2025 when it comes to the projected launch date of this hotly awaited debut… if one can use such a word for the resurrection of this celebrated temple to roast beef on the Strand (est. 1828) which backs onto The Savoy (same owners). Restaurant supremo Jeremy King has partnered with Fairmont to rescue this “last of the ‘grande dame’ restaurants” and few openings carry such expectations and potential. The astonishing mediocrity of its traditional fare over recent decades has – notwithstanding its period charms; ongoing fame; large size; relaunch after relaunch; the huge surge in interest in dining out; and rising esteem for British cuisine – become an ever-more-obscure anachronism. King has said he envisions “a big-theatre brasserie”, but one that would “very much hark on its tradition” (“I want people to walk in there and say, ‘Oh good, they haven’t changed it’, although it will have changed”). Even if they have auctioned off the famous beef trolleys, if anyone can do it, it will be King… it could be so good.

The intriguing and enormous brick-lined crypt of St Martin in the Fields, right by Trafalgar Square, provides a self-service canteen for church or concert goers, and anyone else in the West End who happens to be passing. The simple food is not art, but it is cheap and the venue “makes a change from all the chains of coffee shops in this part of London”. Top Menu Tip – “good pizza”.

“So welcoming it feels like home…”; “always look forward to eating here with a glass of house fizz…” – this “noisy, crowded but very fun” Champagne & Seafood bar in Soho is cossetting yet “down to earth” all at the same time and celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Set in a converted Edwardian butchers’ shop which once supplied The Ritz and The Savoy, a perch on its high stools is “good for people-watching too” while tucking into some “excellent seafood” provided by its “snappy service”. Unusually for a venue that generates a high volume of feedback, not a word of it is negative – the worst being a gentle “not cheap, but good value”.

“Good for a working lunch” in Holborn’s ‘Legal Land’ – this “nicely atmospheric, old banking hall” offers a brasserie menu with a British twist, and is best known for its savoury pies: the Pie Room doubles as a private dining room, and there are pie-making masterclasses for true aficionados of pie-craft.

“Restaurants like this are such a rarity nowadays” – and this “raffish and romantic”, “cosy, dimly-lit and lively” ancient townhouse retains its quirky “very special” and “sensual” appeal (“still love it after all these years: 35 and counting!”). “Even without the characterful Mr E [who died in 2022] the feeling of old Soho is maintained (he would be proud)” and its very tightly packed interior is a major magnet for lovers, old mates and ‘meeja’ types. The simple and “honest” “seasonal” British cooking is “always changing, interesting and doesn’t break the bank”, and – in particular – the “astonishing wine and sherry selection” is “a joy” (being particularly strong in “very fairly priced, older red vintages”). “Knowledgeable and friendly staff further add to the experience” of “a delightful place with great charm” and “real hospitality”. Top Tips – “Stay on the ground floor for the full Dickensian experience” – “the level of romance depends very much on where your candle-lit table is located in this quirky place”. And plush it ain’t (“I defy anyone to feel romantic or raffish after sitting on a pew seat through dinner…”; “we do know people who are simply too big for it to be comfortable”).

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!