Irby Restaurant Guide

You cross the outside terrace (great in summer) to eat at Gary Usher’s welcoming bistro, along from a parade of shops on the Wirral. For fans it’s a “favourite of the Elite Bistros mini chain: the seasonal menus are much the same as at the others but always delicious, with great staff too”.

2022 Review: A fixture of dining on the Wirral through four decades – “it’s been there for years” – the Galantini family’s Italian-inspired venue is as reliable as ever and “Enrico’s interesting food is always worth a try”. Long the head chef, he has now taken over management from his parents, Lino & Barbara, but regulars will be pleased to know that “the particularly good specialities such as Avocado Barbara” (avocado peeled, stuffed with prawns, covered with cream cheese and deep-fried in breadcrumbs) are still on the menu.

This “fun spot in the Albert Dock” – younger sibling of Peter & Elaine Kinsella’s Lunya – offers “a real taste of Spain and good value for money”. “Special mention for the excellent service” (“genuine attention paid to food allergies, above and beyond the routine questions”).

2021 Review: The “lovely Thai food” at these reliable cafés is “impressively authentic given that they are a chain” – “excellent value” and “fast”, if occasionally let down by “iffy service”. Founded in 2008 by Saiphin and Alex Moore, who inherited the name of their first East End site, the group has 18 branches in London and expanded to Liverpool, Manchester, Reading (delivery only) and Leeds following the sale of a majority stake to US investors. The couple also have two spin-offs, Lao Café in Covent Garden and the new Chinese noodle bar Hoh Sek in St Katharine Docks.

2022 Review: In the Albert Dock, this collaboration between Belzan and Breddos Tacos occupies the atmospheric vaulted brick premises that characterise these Grade I listed dockland buildings, and comes with a large outside terrace. It’s hot right now as a place to get boozed up in party mood, but the Latino dishes are worth exploring (and The Guardian's Grace Dent raved in a June 2021 review).

“Unbelievable views from this dazzling 34th-floor restaurant” are undeniably the prime attraction at this dramatic (and romantic) eyrie in the city’s ‘West Tower’: the tallest building in the country outside London and Manchester. Over the years, though, the modern British cuisine here has been consistently well rated and although you can push the boat out on a tasting option if you want, the prix-fixe menu is competitively priced. Afternoon tea also gets the thumbs-up.

2021 Review: “Italian small plates (this time)” “from the Salt House tapas stable” – win solid ratings for this “friendly, buzzy restaurant” from the Red & Blue team. It’s “great for a larger party”, with “seats at the bar good for dates”; “it’s crowded so you do get to hear your neighbours’ conversations – although in Liverpool that can be theatre”.

2022 Review: “Always busy and buzzing with conversation”, this “reliable upmarket resto in the business district of the city centre” – a link in the glitzy national Italian chain – wins solid marks for its “atmosphere, good-quality produce and cooking”.

2021 Review: Manchester’s tapas smash hit branched out in August 2019, with this large 250-seat opening, in the Exchange Flags development, overlooking Liverpool’s fine town hall (which formerly traded as Steven Gerrard’s ‘The Vincent’). A big and well-stocked bar is also key to the offering.

2021 Review: “Consistently good food at a competitive price” plus a “useful central location and a great choice of gins” means this modern brasserie from Merseyside’s Red & Blue Restaurants group is “worth a visit”.

2021 Review: BBC2’s ‘My Million Pound Menu’ winners Dave Bone (chef) Jamie Duffield (front of house), and Anthony Power opened this new venture in Duke Street Market (a revamped docklands warehouse) in spring 2019. The food offering is based on dishes found along the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes in Spain, France and Portugal, and – though we received no survey feedback – it’s receiving a good rep generally (including from Michelin who awarded it a 2020 Bib Gourmand).

“A six-course themed taster menu, that changes every six weeks!” is the “playful idea” at Nico Simeone’s national chain, whose two London branches (in Fitzrovia and Canary Wharf) are “great for special occasions, but also affordable for a regular monthly meal out to experience the different cuisines”. At such keen prices, it’s unreasonable to expect perfection and most diners acknowledge this: it’s “a clever, and obviously very popular, concept, albeit one where the experience can seem a bit manufactured”; “although it doesn’t always live up to expectations, when you get the right menu everything clicks into place”; so while inevitably it’s “hit and miss, it’s also great value”, and “for a fun evening it does the job well”.