Fitzrovia, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Sublime on every level… if only it wasn’t so expensive”. James Knappett and Sandia Chang’s 18-seater in Fitzrovia re-opened after a significant reformatting in July 2021 and “it’s both an exceptional meal and quite a show” – “the arrangement of the counter makes for a theatrical experience, with lots of opportunity to chat with the people cooking and running front of house”, while the multi-course menu (each course focused on a single ingredient) is, all reports agree, utterly “memorable”. Practically all reports also mention the pricing though – “OUCH!”… “it was amazing but the bill’s crazy…”

This faux-rustic pub in deepest Fitzrovia from Guy Ritchie and David Beckham is “a class act”, and serves some of the “best pub grub ever”, including venison from Ritchie’s Wiltshire estate. The pub has been around for almost 200 years and has previously been known as the Adams Arms and the Lukin. Two fires in the space of six months last year invited newspaper headlines about ‘two smoking barrels’.

“Rocking something reminiscent of an upscale NYC-style neighbourhood vibe (a real triumph in the context of central London)” – Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s “unpretentious, relaxed and happy” corner site in Fitzrovia “keeps up very high standards”: “the menu is always original”, service is “charming”, there’s an “interesting wine list” and a “noisy buzzy atmosphere”. It can be slightly “erratic” though, and arguably “in being rather cramped, it needs to get off the fence and either up the party mood, or space the tables and quieten down a little”.

“They don’t need to try too hard” at Jun Tanaka’s “relaxed” but extremely accomplished Fitzrovia fixture. “Everything that’s on the plate is there for a reason… a good reason!” – his “very high-quality” cuisine is “very well-balanced” and service is “charming”. Top Menu Tips – “seared mackerel with pickles works well, beef cheeks is a signature, and turbot head is wonderful”. BREAKING NEWS: In summer 2022, a fire closed the restaurant, with no reopening date set as of mid August 2022.

“Delicious shakshuka with maxing smoky flavours” is typical of the “colourful and flavoursome” brunch-friendly dishes at this “very buzzy if not loud” chain, known for its “top coffee” (which they roast themselves), and whose best-known sites are the Exmouth Market original and large Granary Square branch. Recently, they also added an opening in Canary Wharf and a brew bar at their Caledonian Road roastery (not listed), with further ‘measured expansion’ planned. For the most part, they are still mostly seen as a “reliable” choice for an “interesting and healthy” breakfast: “not everything is a hit but for a casual lunch I am pretty happy”. Top Tip – “when the sun is shining, it’s worth waiting for an outside table” in N1.

2021 Review: “Nice views of Borough Market, if you get a window seat” (“watch out for the trains on the adjoining viaduct that appear to be coming towards you”) add to the considerable appeal of this “light and airy dining space” (which atmospherically incorporates a converted glazed portico, originally part of the Royal Opera House). Specialising in British cuisine – particularly roast meats – most reports say the food is “brilliant”, but there remains a sceptical view that it’s “less-than-good home cooking”. Top Menu Tip – breakfast and brunch have long been a very reliable experience here.

“Incredible cooking at very fair prices” matched with excellent wines has built a major following for Will Lander and Daniel Morgenthau’s “homely and calm” Fitzrovia destination, with open kitchen on view. “Knowledgeable and classy service” adds considerably to the experience: “it feels like a treat, and yet also has a real neighbourhood feel to it too, which for food of this standard and this central can be rare”.

2021 Review: A “superb and quirky afternoon tea” is to be had in the atrium of this boutique hotel north of Oxford Street, with is themed around Alice in Wonderland’s Mad Hatter (the ‘drink me’ potion here, is an invitation to indulge in Champagne!): “good value for a huge amount of attention to detail – love it!”

“It can feel a little uncomfortable” and “canteen-like”, but this converted greasy spoon in Bloomsbury (nowadays a ‘bar, restaurant and wine shop’) belies its looks by serving “imaginative seasonal cooking from a constantly changing menu reflecting the availability of ingredients”. The involvement of chef Anna Tobias (who’s worked with a host of star chefs) and the hip 40 Maltby Street team hasn’t harmed its PR – our feedback is positive, but not quite at the level of raves from the likes of Grace Dent and Tom Parker Bowles.

“Jason Atherton certainly knows how to tart up traditional British fare”, according to fans of his “indulgent and delicious” cuisine within this “fabulous” space – a converted banking hall that’s part of Marriott’s glam, Ian Shrager-designed Edition hotel, north of Oxford Street. Ratings overall, though, are in middle territory, with harsher reports feeling it “rarely elevates above the level of a good gastropub”. Top Menu Tip – “the mac ’n’ cheese is simply the best”.

2022 Review: ‘Exciting concept changes’ are promised at this elegant Roux-branded dining room, within the luxurious five-star opposite Broadcasting House. Democratised in style in 2018, then closed for much of the pandemic and beyond, the presumption is that it will take another move to a less formal (perhaps brasserie?) style when it reopens in 2022. Just the other side of the wall is The Wigmore – a pub created from spare space at the hotel and launched with its own entrance and Roux input in 2017. A hint at what’s to come?

“Don’t think high end, but these local 24-hour cafés are reliable and pleasant for a plain meal at any hour of the night or day”, but particularly come into their own in the wee hours. In fact, only the well-known Chelsea original and the Aldgate spin-off (in a hotel) are open 24/7: opening hours in Bloomsbury are more selective. (Aldgate also has a standalone bar with a 24-hour alcohol licence).

The “beautiful terrace” with its “attentive staff” at this very central hotel makes for an oasis of calm close to busy Oxford Street. Named in reference to Virginia Woolf, the queen bee of the Bloomsbury set, it has a “fun atmosphere”, and the heating and retractable roof make it ideal for afternoon tea throughout the year.

The upstairs dining room of this 18th-century pub close to Oxford Circus has reopened under a dream team of owners JKS (the group behind Gymkhana, Bao, Arcade Food Hall etc), chef James Knappett of Kitchen Table and publican Dominic Jacobs of the Running Horse. The same formula has been an uneven success at The Cadogan Arms, but early feedback here is more encouraging.

An “impressive wine list” is the undoubted highlight of this small group, with branches in the West End and Chelsea – the newest branch is a 120-cover site near Oxford Circus. No-one has terrible things to say about its food selection, though, which is judged “passable…”, “OK…”, “…tasty if a little pricey”.