Cambridgeshire Restaurant Guide

“This institution has been a feature of Cambridgeshire life for 50 years” – an ivy-clad Georgian hotel in a “lovely location” overlooking the Great Ouse, owned for almost 30 years by Master of Wine John Hoskins, whose expertise is reflected in the “exceptional wine list” and on-site shop. Some diners feel the food is “pretty average” by comparison, but others feel it is “imaginative” enough and with “top-quality local ingredients”. For wine buffs, though, the cellar is sufficient attraction, as “the hotel has an excellent wine shop with two Enomatic wine dispensers, allowing for a great wine tasting experience as well as underpinning an exceptionally large by-the-glass selection”.

2019 Review: With its fortunes revived under the Huntsbridge Group of late, this “lovely old thatched building with sunny conservatory” joined the local, ever-growing Cambscuisine empire in January 2018; fans say it’s “back in business”, turning out “interesting and well-prepared” food.

“What an experience: from the brimming tray of Champagne choices and canapés to great coffee at the end and a parting gift”, this VIctorian villa delivers an experience that’s “very special”. It helps that it has an idyllic location, on the banks of The Cam opposite the college boathouses and surrounded by the greenery of Midsummer Common. In 2023, Daniel Clifford celebrates his 25th year at the stoves here. “There is alchemy at work with his magical combinations, creativity and attention to detail at every stage” – some very fine food, which helps make this one of the most commented-on destinations in the UK. Dishes are “prepared with wit and incredible to look at”. But they are also “phenomenally expensive, particularly if you also have the wine flight” and the level of value remains the main issue when considering a meal here, with almost one in five diners feeling the place is too “overpriced”. Still, “it always impresses even if it is somewhat pricey even when compared to London”. (“There will be moans about the bill, but, as I was hosted by my children for a big birthday, that was not my problem. What an experience it was. I am not sure I like being this age, but the celebration was second to none!”)

“A lovely bright and cheerful room, with good food and special touches” make this glossy British brasserie from Richard Caring’s chain a useful option for many in the Varsity town – although, like its many siblings around the country, it “lacks the glitter of the London original”.

This “good (mainly) seafood restaurant – always with good oysters” – is a decent option for a meal on a prime tourist site, directly opposite the Great Gate of the college of the same name. “Service is lovely”, and the “creative menu” is “now slightly SE Asian (coconut and/or curry with everything)”.

“Despite its tourist-trap location” on the Cambridge main drag, this steakhouse excels – for its “enormous slabs of decent meat, which has been properly cooked”, “fair prices” and a “good-value lunch menu”. It’s “essential” to eat in the “lovely atmosphere downstairs”, with “street-level views of King’s College Chapel”.

The “surprisingly delicious and wide-ranging menu” combines sushi with yakitori skewers (the so-called ‘sticks’) at this extremely popular Japanese-inspired group, whose “bustling” branches betray the Scandi style of their Copenhagen-based owners. It’s “a perfect choice if not everyone wants sushi” (even if it’s “expensive and portions are a bit on the small side”). A tenth branch is promised in late 2022 in Westfield W12.

This “useful stopping place in the centre of Cambridge” serves “solid pub food” and a “good selection” of craft beers. A boozer for only 10 years, it was once the home of E.M. Forster.

2022 Review: Ambitious and “exciting” Indian cuisine is on the menu at this Cambridge operation, which crossed the road into new premises in late 2021 (rendering obsolete complaints of “peeling wallpaper”). Reporters recommend choosing one of the tasting menus, which offer seven courses of standard, vegetarian or vegan dishes – “it meant that I tried dishes I wouldn’t normally choose and really opened up new flavours to me”.

2019 Review: Despites both its iconic status – a Cambridge landmark since 1921 – and foodie ownership (FT columnist, Tim Hayward has owned it since 2011), this Varsity café (most famous for its Chelsea buns) inspires only limited and middling feedback: “more-than-adequate if pricey comfort food in a busy environment”.

“Focused on simple dishes, with excellent ingredients, all elevated by sharp cooking” – the year-old grill at this new Graduate Hotel (named for the previous hotel on this site) wins positive feedback in our annual diners’ poll (but too limited for a rating).

2021 Review: Look out for the bright yellow Citroën van, if you want to try veteran restaurateur Regis Crépy’s latest venture, selling Alsatian pizza-type Flammekueche in a Cambridge food court. For a tasty, cheap ’n’ cheerful snack that’s a little out of the ordinary, these “light”, “fresh-tasting” and “reasonably priced” wafers of bread dough complete with toppings are just the job.

“A proper brasserie in a lovely refurbished hotel in the middle of Cambridge” – “who would have guessed that the once-dismal University Arms would house such a charmer?”. Ex-Launceston Place chef Tristan Welch champions local East Anglian produce on a menu that provides comfort rather than foodie fireworks. Rebuilt several years ago, this long-established hotel has a fantastic position, overlooking Parker’s Piece.

2021 Review: This “meaty joint” occupies an attractive converted mill, complete with working water wheel. It “continues to please students and locals in its airy space overlooking river and millpond (I saw a kingfisher!)”.

2022 Review: “Consistently excellent burgers from a small fleet of vintage Citroën vans” – painted bright yellow and red – ensure this small local brand has high visibility around Cambridge. You can also sample the burgers from a more conventional bricks and mortar site in Wheeler Street.

2022 Review: “Always a pleasure”, this indie bistro is a “local favourite”, twinning “very friendly service and reliable cooking” of an Anglo-European bent; take advantage of the attractive courtyard in clement months or pop in pre- or post-theatre.

“So stunningly good” – there’s “no need for meat or fish” at Alex Rushmer’s “innovative and exciting” venture: “who cares if it’s vegan/veggie or not? This is simply outstanding tasty food which will totally blow you away”. The former MasterChef finalist ran the Hole in the Wall in nearby Little Wilbraham before launching here with Lawrence Butler in 2019. Top Tip – “the focaccia and yeast butter is a revelation”.

“Great food and service” have been the order of the day since 1968 at the restaurant and art gallery Ann Jarman founded in 1968 in a Georgian house near the cathedral (her husband Michael passed away two years ago). More like a private home than a commercial business, it is “very old-fashioned – but that’s its charm”. “First visit for over 40 (yes, over 40) and still doing proper home cooking so well. And our server was working there when I last went!”

Limited but positive feedback on this successful vegan, which shifted to this new location in a new development near the station in 2021. Worth remembering if you are catching a train and a place of pilgrimage for those who eat meat-free. It’s a rare Cambridge eatery that has spawned openings in the capital (see also).