The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell was full of praise for the new spinoff from Restaurant 22 (also on Chesterton Road), where he found the food “seriously sublime – the cooking without fault, delivering well-balanced dishes and the finest cheffing nicely short of too many knobs on top.”
Focaccia both soft and crunchy, a vivid pea soup “with little bites of wild garlic to make the dish a strong contender for favourite slurp of 2025”, a terrine of chicken that was “a masterclass of soft, fresh pressing”, a piece of monkfish, a lamb rump and tomato salad were all “beautifully executed”.
The one fail was a duff treacle tart, in William’s view “too smooth, its crust too thin, its texture all wrong. The filling needs those bitey crumbs that fully divorce it from a smooth custard. It should be rustic, earthy and sweet, and tempered with cream. Not trying, as this one does ill-advisedly, to melt in the mouth.”
William Sitwell - 2025-07-13
