Southwark, Spanish Restaurant Guide

2024 Review: Long-standing tapas bar in a tiny converted pub near Southwark tube that’s “great fun and like being in Spain” – tucked away in a backstreet, it is handily close to the South Bank’s arts venues, including Tate Modern, the Old Vic and the National Theatre.

This quintet of tapas bars from the well-known Iberian food importer attracts most attention for its locations – in particular its “lively and popular” original bar at the entrance to Borough Market; and most recent addition: a “lovely riverside spot overlooking the Thames at Richmond”. Despite its renown – and some praise for its “small plates but big flavours” – ratings are held down by prices many reporters consider “high” for what’s widely seen as “pretty standard tapas fare”.

2022 Review: This “great little tapas bar with simple service” at the edge of Borough Market is “a place where the food speaks for itself” – which may be a good thing, since its “cramped” accommodation inside a Victorian railway arch is “decidedly grotty”. There’s a definite meat bias to the menu, although the “squid with black rice is particularly good”.

“Fancy? No. Value? Yes” – this bustling tapas bar directly opposite the Young Vic theatre offers “tasty, simple, quickly prepared dishes, delivered with energy and charm at a fair price”. Launched in 1987, well before London’s tapas boom, “it has survived for so long, it must be doing something right”. (“The real joy? Absolutely packed and not a single photo being taken!”).

“Counter seats are the best” at the Hart Bros’ “magical slice of Spain” – a “joyful” and thriving homage to Barcelona’s famous Cal Pep, which since its 2007 launch has steadily appeared near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s most popular restaurant groups. Its branches have multiplied, but – to a miraculous extent – the formula has stayed the same. “At the bar, it’s fun to watch the talented staff who were clearly enjoying their jobs, meticulously preparing the outstanding dishes”: “brilliant small plates, with plenty of choice” and “packed with authentic flavours” (“particularly strong on fish and seafood”); plus “an excellent range of sherries” and wines. But, while it’s maintained “impressive consistency over many years”, it can feel “like a bar experience at restaurant prices” nowadays, and its ratings drifted south of their usual peaks this year. There’s also the odd tale of caution in reports: “I’ve been almost every year since it opened. It’s still great fun and pretty good, but the last three visits have fallen below the super-high quality of the past”. Top Menu Tips – “love the Croquetes; the Cos salad with anchovy and crispy pancetta; and perfectly unctuous Tortilla”.

“A fun way to share and eat for a small group” – you BBQ your own meal at your table at the Hart Bros’ duo of Hispanic haunts in Borough Yards and Coal Drops Yard, which take their inspiration from the Spanish ‘parrilla’ or grill. You can also eat more conventionally in SE1, allowing the chefs to do the work for you, and since it opened in 2022 this has become the more highly rated branch. In N1, there’s the benefit of a large outside terrace “set under cover outside, but with overhead heaters and heated cushions so you don’t feel cold”. You might feel the chill when the bill arrives though, especially at the N1 original (“the menu looked good and the food was fine, but all I could think of was how expensive it was. £8.40 for two mini croquettes just overshadowed how tasty they were”).