Marylebone, Indian Restaurant Guide

“A south Indian spicy twist to seafood” underpins the ongoing popularity of the “interesting cuisine” at this “brilliant” Marylebone institution: namesake to a famous Mumbai destination and the original springboard for the all-conquering JKS Restaurants chain (of which it is still a part). It’s an attractive if “slightly cramped” U-shaped space, whose ambience somewhat depends on where you end up. On the downside, there are those who feel “the food has gone downhill” since its glittering heyday.

Food writer Ravinder Bhogal this year celebrates the 10th anniversary of her “magical” Marylebone showcase, where her “fresh, light, aromatic Indian-fusion cooking” delivers “flavourful food in unique combinations”. “The delicious and original dishes are perfect for sharing (so we tasted almost everything on the menu!)”. “Attentive, intelligent and informal service” is also “greatly appreciated”.

“The starters and small plates are stars of the show” at this “hidden gem in Fitzrovia” (named after a chic Mumbai ’burb) – so “just order loads of small plates and the most amazing flakey bread this side of heaven”. The “very tasty spicing and good tandoori action” here makes “a welcome change from the usual Chicken Tikka Masala menus” (while the departure of much-fêted founding chef Avinash Shashidhara last year doesn’t yet seem to have presented a problem for Azure Hospitality, the Delhi-based owners).

“Hidden away down a side street” just two minutes’ walk from Selfridges, this “modern Indian with a twist” has put in a quiet but high-quality performance for many years now since it opened in 2011. “There’s a different menu on each floor, but both are tasty, well-executed and with fast and friendly service”. “Upstairs on the ground floor they serve delicious street food at very reasonable prices” (in fact it was a pioneer in that respect when it opened). “Always seems to be busy, and many Asian and subcontinental diners… speaks for itself”.

This upmarket and upbeat take on North Indian/Pakistani cuisine near Marble Arch showcases Punjabi-born Riz Dar’s “very good” cooking, and inspires consistently solid ratings from a far-flung fan-base.

Another stonking home-run from JKS Restaurants – this “terrific”, late-2021 newcomer in Mayfair is “a very different concept from what we’ve all become used to in upmarket Indian”, with its mix of counter-seating and booths (“a rather cramped and loud space, but ultimately it works out well”). “Adventurous” chef Chet Sharma shows “amazing execution” and pulls off a dining “sensation” with “stimulating dishes that often come with a twist”. “It’s a high price tag and tasting-menus only, but they pull it off in terms of value vs. quality. The team are really attentive and know how to make the environment work, and there’s an interesting playlist!”. Top Tip – “the counter setting comes at the cost of comfort, but gives you an up close and personal engagement with the chef”.

“A genuine legend serving authentic South Indian food at reasonable prices” – this “long-established” Keralan near the Telecom Tower dispenses “tasty, high-quality” meals in dated surroundings (“don’t worry about the formica tables”). There is the odd concern raised that “the food is no longer what it was” but most reports are remorselessly upbeat. Top Menu Tip – “incredible masala dosa”.

“Quintessential Kolkata-style food and ambience” win a large fan club for this “unusual” outfit near Marble Arch, where “carefully sourced ingredients” help to recreate “delicious authentic West Bengal cuisine”. Named after a historic district of Calcutta, it is backed by two friends, restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee and airline mogul Aditya Ghosh.

2022 Review: After winning a mentorship in a pop-up competition at Westfield White City Shopping Centre in 2018, Mehak Kansal brought this bricks-and-mortar operation to Mayfair in October 2020. ‘Bindas’ – Punjabi for without limitations and inhibitions – here translates into eclectic decor and a varied selection of street food. No feedback as yet, but they must be doing something right, as a second site is on the cards.

In the new Mandarin Oriental hotel in Hanover Square, this spring 2025 newcomer is the most high-profile of four venues branded by US-based Korean chef Akira Back. Meaning ’expert’ in Korean, Dosa is a showcase for Japanese-inspired Korean cuisine led by executive chef Jihun Kim, who has worked with Back for 10 years; and who also helped on launches in Dubai and Paris. The meal – accompanied by either wines or sake – is served at a single 7pm sitting to no more than 14 guests seated at a counter fronting an open kitchen, and dishes include the likes of Brill and Sea Urchin with Seaweed Soup, and Red Bean and Black Sesame Soufflé. Reports so far are few in number but rate the food as exceptional. (Other Akira Back venues in the hotel include the ABar rooftop and ‘Akira Back’ – featuring a triple-height sky roof and dishes such as AB Tuna Pizza and the Perfect Storm signature roll).