The Times
Giles Coren surprised himself by enjoying a modern Greek restaurant despite the “bad vibrations” of its setting – an ugly newbuild in “soulless, over-moneyed new Marylebone”.
Once inside, he found “they’ve done wonderful things with the bleak space”, and the concise and enticing menu was equally to his liking, with dishes that ranged from “delicious palourde clams in white wine, yoghurt and dill” to an excellent duck with squishy gigante beans and roast Middle White suckling pig with roast wild greens.
Giles also ruminated on national identity, pointing out that he was served by a Spaniard and a Hungarian while the head chef, Louis Korovilas, was a Brit who has made his name with Italian cuisine (at Bancone and Locanda Locatelli) and the exec chef, Glen Ballis, was Australian – although Korovilas is a Greek name and Ballis “did once have Greek parents, which is fair dinkum if you ask me”.
Giles Coren - 2026-06-07
