LONDON, Italian Restaurant Guide

“While I do go to this place and enjoy it, I question whether it is good value for what it is: it’s safe and reliable but couldn’t be said to be top-notch” – the verdict we deliver pretty much every year on these civilised Italians in Chelsea and the City, which, so long as you are fairly cost-insensitive, provide a “smart and buzzy” environment for meeting a pal or holding an informal business lunch, with Italian cooking that’s “generally well done if a little uninspired”. Top Tip – cute, heated outside terrace in SW3.

At the heart of the brutalist Barbican complex (with views of the internal lake) this arts-centre amenity is, fans say, “a better-than-you’d expect place”: “a nice restaurant with good service and a range of choices to suit most tastes”. Possibly this is true, but, arguably, this is also an indictment of the modest level of expectations of most Britons towards their institutions and top caterers (in this case, Searcy’s).

This “friendly Italian near the Barbican” has a good-sized fan club. It serves “food that is just that little bit different” – “the cooking seems to have taken a step up recently, and the place is often bustling”. There’s a “great and fairly priced list of Italian wines” – “and do leave room for the puddings”.

“We love the pistachio decor and the spacious seating”, say fans of this expanding chain, which had operated as a treasured old deli in Soho for over 75 years before starting to branch out as a pasta-chain in 2018. Impressions of it are something of a mixed bag though. To fans, its stylised outlets are “very convenient” and “can be trusted for a good-value and enjoyable experience with excellent food” (mostly pasta) in “sensible portions”. On the downside, though, are a fair number of diners to whom it’s a good concept whose execution is “perfectly fine but unexciting” (“starters good, pasta average-to-good, but compared with folk who had raved to me about other branches, I was left with a sense of ‘meh?’”). Still, their backers are enthusiastic and this year they added new locations in Greek Street and South Kensington.

“You can practise your Italian language skills” at this “genuine, quirky Puglian restaurant in busy Islington, with great service from real Italians who know the region”. Even some fans concede that culinary results can be “mixed”, with hits and misses reported in a single meal. Nevertheless, it’s “always buzzing” and “might benefit from some sound absorbers as it can get very noisy”. They also have a lesser-known spin-off near St Paul’s.

Review: “We love the pistachio decor and the spacious seating”, say fans of this expanding chain, which had operated as a treasured old deli in Soho for over 75 years before starting to branch out as a pasta-chain in 2018. Impressions of it are something of a mixed bag though. To fans, its stylised outlets are “very convenient” and “can be trusted for a good-value and enjoyable experience with excellent food” (mostly pasta) in “sensible portions”. On the downside, though, are a fair number of diners to whom it’s a good concept whose execution is “perfectly fine but unexciting” (“starters good, pasta average-to-good, but compared with folk who had raved to me about other branches, I was left with a sense of ‘meh?’”). Still, their backers are enthusiastic and this year they added new locations in Greek Street and South Kensington.