City, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

2017 Review: The “lovely fish” at this seafood specialist in Leadenhall Market comes at very City prices – “I almost choked on the bill!” But it has its fans, who praise the “great location, happy staff and interesting food” (if from an “essentially static” menu).

“It feels as if one has been decanted into the 1920s but I never fail to enjoy my visits!” – “This unique City institution has a charm and authenticity that can’t be imitated” – a “joyous throwback” (founded, on a different site, in 1830) which offers “simple, well-executed British seafood classics” (followed by steamed puddings) at lunchtimes only, to a largely besuited crowd. The “eclectic seating arrangements” can “be a surprise to newbies” – you either perch at “makeshift bar-tops”, or cram into the rear dining room where “service is hindered by the lack of room, but everyone mucks in and plates get passed around”. “The waiters are nearly as old as the building, but that just adds to its appeal…”. “Black Velvet is served in pewter tankards, and a ‘bill of fare’ serves instead of a menu”. The experience comes at “ridiculous prices”, but most reckon they’re worth paying… “and the place does now take cards”.

“The best and freshest oysters by far, with seasonal varieties from time to time…”; “superb plateau de fruits de mer”; and “super-fresh fish” from an “ever-changing selection of specials”, all make this small group of seafood bistros “easy to love”. The style is “busy and jostling” throughout – “be prepared to share your table with other diners” in some locations – in others “some of the tables are so close, you’ll make new friends whether you want to or not!”. The Borough Market original and South Kensington spin-off attract most (and most favourable) reports – other branches (including at Battersea) can seem “a welcome addition but nothing remarkable”.

This seafood specialist in a converted warehouse near Liverpool Street – part of the D&D London operation – “looks good” and does have fans who feel it delivers outstanding fish. Ratings were undercut this year, though, by several moans that it “over-promises and under-delivers”.

London's appetite for poké bowls (Hawaiian raw fish dish) remains undimmed with a second outpost of this particular poké bar arriving in the City near Fenchurch Street.