City, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“It feels as if one has been decanted into the 1920s but I never fail to enjoy my visits!” – “This unique City institution has a charm and authenticity that can’t be imitated” – a “joyous throwback” (founded, on a different site, in 1830) which offers “simple, well-executed British seafood classics” (followed by steamed puddings) at lunchtimes only, to a largely besuited crowd. The “eclectic seating arrangements” can “be a surprise to newbies” – you either perch at “makeshift bar-tops”, or cram into the rear dining room where “service is hindered by the lack of room, but everyone mucks in and plates get passed around”. “The waiters are nearly as old as the building, but that just adds to its appeal…”. “Black Velvet is served in pewter tankards, and a ‘bill of fare’ serves instead of a menu”. The experience comes at “ridiculous prices”, but most reckon they’re worth paying… “and the place does now take cards”.

The cut-price surf ’n’ turf at this “fun, relaxed and reliable” operation “never fails” – “have a lobster roll as a starter, then a burger as a main”. Under the same ownership as the Goodman steakhouses, the London-based chain has consolidated to nine domestic branches plus the Smack lobster roll delivery-only spinoff, while expanding internationally in the US, Middle East and southeast Asia.

This seafood specialist in a converted warehouse near Liverpool Street – part of the D&D London operation – “looks good” and does have fans who feel it delivers outstanding fish. Ratings were undercut this year, though, by several moans that it “over-promises and under-delivers”.

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