Harden's survey result
“The best and freshest oysters by far, with seasonal varieties from time to time…”; “superb plateau de fruits de mer”; and “super-fresh fish” from an “ever-changing selection of specials”, all make this small group of seafood bistros “easy to love”. The style is “busy and jostling” throughout – “be prepared to share your table with other diners” in some locations – in others “some of the tables are so close, you’ll make new friends whether you want to or not!”. The Borough Market original and South Kensington spin-off attract most (and most favourable) reports – other branches (including at Battersea) can seem “a welcome addition but nothing remarkable”.
“An amazing selection of oysters” and other “wonderfully inventive fish and shellfish dishes” (in particular, “blackboard specials are usually excellent”) have made these bustling fish bistros one of the capital’s most popular chains amongst foodies, and – though relatively new – they have “an old-fashioned style, feeling like they’ve been there for years (in a good way…)”. “The latest addition in Battersea Power Station and overlooking the Thames may be the best yet!”
“A haven for top notch oysters and shellfish” (they have their own Cornish farm and wholesalers) – these “bustling” bistros have grown from their Borough Market origins on the back of their “sparklingly fresh and delicious” dishes, plus “good wines by the glass”. “That they’re cramped is all part of the charm”. Battersea is the latest addition to the family, and in SW7 fans tip “the little gem of a Mermaid Bar, like a luxurious grotto with elegant cocktails”.
“A terrific oyster selection”… “fabulous dressed crab”… “superb mussels” – such are the “fuss-free” delicacies at these extremely popular, “friendly” and “always buzzing” seafood specialists.
Wright Brothers Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Does what it does very well - great as usual - superb oysters, prawns etc."
"Always cosy (in a good way). It knows what it is doing and it does it really, really well."
"Great place to stop after visiting Borough Market area. For me, I go there for the fish soup aoili & toasts with a glass of Nyetimber"
"Cramped, noisy and authentic and with great seafood"
"Excellent food, specialising in oysters and seafood."
Wright Brothers Oyster & Porter House SE1
Theatre critics get free tickets for official openings, and allow previews to pass unappraised. Restaurant criticism offers no such amnesty, with some newspaper reviews now regularly written - explicitly or not - on the basis of previews. The surprise - and, ideally, anonymity - which should characterise a restaurant critic's presence is therefore often absent. Another way of bringing readers early reports is to visit during an opening offer period, when a half-price menu is offered to the public at large. With all its obvious downsides, this is not a bad halfway house, and it was such an offer which enticed us to preview this basic Borough seafood parlour, which has since 'officially' opened.
So, what could be deduced at that early stage? That the seafood - the Wrights are wholesalers of some note - looks set to be among the best in town. Our lunch was one of splendid native oysters, and dressed Cornish crab better than any we've had in Cornwall. It doesn't sound much of a meal, but, with some very good bread, it seemed like a feast. For those of greater appetites, plÃ¢teaux de fruits de mer are the obvious choice. The wine list is pertinent, but it is short and sadly offers only house selections by the glass. There is also a small range of beers and ciders.
'So what do you think?', said a man who seemed vaguely in charge of the chaos. We replied that the food seemed pretty good to us. He nodded. 'And the service?' Before we had formulated a response he answered his own question - 'pretty dreadful at the moment, isn't it?' So there you have it - the truly self-critical restaurant. We may be biased, but this seems to us a trend not to be encouraged.
|Number of Diners:|
all day noon - 10.30 pm
Last orders: 10.30 pm, Sun 9 pm