The Sunday Times
Camilla Long found the latest restaurant in a hotel from Gordon Ramsay to be a “proper kitchen nightmare”, and raised doubts about whether the chef had ever set foot in the space.
Ramsay managed to escape the scrutiny he famously hands out to other restaurants, she said, leaving his own multiple mid-market restaurants somehow “beneath rational criticism”. But her meal in this this vast, hangar-like restaurant left her “full of impatience, scorn and anger” (just like his) at the “inchoate nothingness” she encountered: the “bored sexy contemporary” ambience, the unengaged staff, and the overpriced, drab ingredients.
As for the food, “the nicest thing we eat” – yellowtail crudo served with pink grapefruit and jalapeño – was no more than a “plain dish of thinly sliced fish, garnished with herbs and chilies”. And the worst: undercooked chips – the kitchen could not even manage “a decent chip”.
Camilla Long - 2026-10-18
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