Harden’s weekly update of where the critics are eating, recommending and avoiding, for the week ending 16 February 2020. Muse, London SW1 Grace Dent for The Guardian has declared it early this year: “I’ve found my restaurant of the year.” Not all of the critics who have reviewed Muse so far have enjoyed it this […]
Gizzi Erskine has opened The Nitery in Covent Garden, a three-month residency taking the place of St Martin’s Lane Kitchen, housed in its eponymous hotel. The restaurant features classic dishes from Britain, France and America, all given “playful” twists, while the name is inspired by early 20th century Parisian ‘niteries’ – a name given to […]
Smoke & Salt has announced the closure of its Brixton pop-up before opening its first bricks and mortar site in Tooting later this year. The final service at the lauded restaurant concept – Marina O’Loughlin called it “properly exciting” – which serves small plates centred on “modern dining/ancient techniques”, will be Saturday February 29. The […]
A pub that has been in the same family for 250 years has awarded the Campaign for Real Ale’s (CAMRA) Pub of the Year accolade. The Bell Inn in Aldworth, which is owned and managed by Hugh Macaulay, scooped the top prize after judges praised its beer selection, relaxed atmosphere, and its community focus. The […]
Jamie Oliver may have put an end to his UK restaurant operations for now, but he is still acutely present around the world, particularly on cruise ships, where his Jamie’s Italian brand lives on. The celebrity chef is getting back in the game a little closer to home too now, though, and with international restaurant […]
Chef Jude Kereama has expanded his Cornish restaurant portfolio with the launch of Kuki, which has opened in The Valley in Carnon Downs. The chef, who has starred in two series of The Great British Menu, has seen acclaim at his two harbourside restaurants in Porthleven, Cornwall, named Kota and Kota Kai. The restaurants specialise […]
Brother and sister duo Emeka and Ifeyinwa Frederick opened their Nigerian tapas restaurant Chuku’s on Thursday. The permanent site follows several successful pop-ups around east London, all of which sold Nigerian food in sites immersed in the country’s culture, with classically bold colours and traditional artwork. Dishes at the restaurant include rice pancakes with pumpkin […]
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 9 February 2020. Casa do Frango, London EC2 “Tortured food v excellent ingredients unmucked-about — I know what wins every time” Marina O’Loughlin for The Sunday Times was craving chicken and chips after enduring a TV show in which Heston Blumenthal made a […]
“Cheery sea-view restaurant”, Regatta in Aldeburgh, praised for “fish [that’s] always fresh and beautifully cooked” is, according to its Twitter account, to close its doors in eight days after nearly 30 years in business. A farewell statement on their Twitter page from owners Rob and Jo Mabey said: “Thank you Aldeburgh! It’s been a pleasure […]
Tim Siadatan and Jordan Frieda will open their second branch of Padella, in Shoreditch, on February 13. The pasta spot, a long-time favourite since opening in Borough Market in 2016, will feature another open kitchen with countertop dining, and will again operate with a no reservations policy. The menu won’t be wildly different to the […]
