Penarth, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Tommy (Heaney, of Great British Menu fame) never fails to deliver”, say fans of the chef’s hip, high-end suburban outpost, launched in 2018 with partner Nikki. The fish-centric seasonal cooking takes in an “excellent and reasonably priced set lunch” as well as more elaborate tasting menus, while a “great atmosphere” (low lighting, guest DJs) adds to its charms. Their no-booking oyster and wine bar, Uisce, is next door and also well worth a look.

Tom Simmons is moving into his fifth year at his versatile Pontcanna venue, which incorporates elements of bar, brasserie and restaurant, with menus to match. “The menu choice is well thought through”: the main foodie event is a seven-course tasting menu for £85 per person where chef channels the energy of West Wales, where he grew up, into some “consistent and fine cooking”; but, equally, you could dine here from the à la carte on posh fish ’n’ chips or Carmarthenshire lamb’s loin. “Lovely and very professional service” completes the picture.