The Times
Giles Coren headed to a steakhouse opposite Cardiff Arms Park which has “Welshified Basque beef vibes” by showcasing dry-aged beef from retired Pembrokeshire and Carmarthenshire dairy cows, in the northern Spanish style.
Giles was impressed by the concept, the ambition and the meat, which was “very, very, very good beef, that could have been great”. Where it fell just short was in the cooking, which left his steak “too red, too shiny, too happy. It could have been darker and crustier and meaner, like the man who ate it. The thick fat could have rendered down a bit, crisped and toffeefied.”
This fantastic beef showed best in a “deep, treacly, ‘slow and low’ cut of cheek served in an iron skillet over crunchy-chewy ‘beef rice’”, while the other Spanish-influenced dishes also impressed: prawn croquetas rolled in charcoal; salchichon of ibérico de bellota scented with truffle; “fabulous” olive oil chips; charcoal turnips in whey sauce with jamon; and thin-sliced red, yellow and green heritage tomato in the restaurant’s own “en rama 44” olive oil, dusted with dried olive crumbs for vegan umami.
Giles Coren - 2024-08-25
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