London, Russian Restaurant Guide

“Luxurious decor, booths and the infamous ‘Press for Champagne’ button by the table, make it all feel quite Russian oligarchy” at Leonid Shutov’s “fun”, “blingy and gimmicky” Soho diner, which feels a bit like a stage set for ‘The Orient Express’. It also has a less commented-on sibling in the City’s ‘Cheesegrater’ building, decked out in a similar but more glossy style, which puts a Bladerunner-esque spin on the theme suited to its skyscraper setting. Both offer privacy and a supremely cosetting setting and are often tipped for special dates or less-formal business entertaining. “The menu likewise has oligarch vibes, with the likes of caviar, vodka shots, oysters and truffles, but this is alongside a great mix of comfort food like pie, chicken Kyiv, and mac ’n’ cheese”. On balance, the food is judged “well-executed” but even so fans can still feel that “some items are highly priced for what they are”. Top Menu Tips – “the real reason to go is the beef Wellington… utterly delicious, cooked perfectly and a generous portion”. Also “fine wine mark-ups are capped at £75” – so if you push the boat out enough it can be a relative bargain!