London Knightsbridge Restaurant Guide

“What a wonderful oasis of calm in the hustle of London’s museum area” – this “elegant dining room of a Polish emigrés’ club” (open to the general public) has a “wonderful 19th-century vibe” and is a “civilised and reliable” setting that’s both “cosy in winter” and with a particularly “beautiful terrace for summer”. Its “authentic traditional Polish fare” is “charmingly served” in “huge portions” with lashings of vodka and some interesting wines.

“A huge cut-above a ‘regular’ Chinese!” – this “well-run”, well-established family-run chain in Knightsbridge, Balham and Mill Hill (and Esher) offers an “upmarket” experience that’s “always reliable”: “not cheap but worth it”. “If feels like a bit of a 1990s throwback and I like it for that!”

Acres of pavement seating are the most eye-catching feature of this “buzzing” operation (run by the well-known Spanish food importers), which sits on the ant-trail between South Kensington tube station and the museums (go on a sunny day). It’s “reliably enjoyable” for a “cheap ’n’ cheerful” meal as the dishes are reliably good, but it’s mostly chosen for its convenience rather than its foodie potential.

“When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

“Faded old-world charm and traditional hearty food” (“stuffed cabbage most enjoyable with potato vodka”) are the hallmarks of this “historic Polish gem” (est 1947) near South Ken tube, where legendary restaurant critics Jonathan Meades and the late AA Gill used to meet regularly for lunch. Even if dishes can be “stodgy” they are “wonderfully authentic” and in “robust portions”, and act as a portal to “the distant past”.

Near the Royal Albert Hall and needing a “reasonably priced” bite? This fun Italian is surprisingly smart given its affordable prices, and its food – majoring in pizza – is consistently well rated. It claims to have been ‘Princess Diana’s local pizzeria’ (and is not shy about promoting the connection via pics on the walls). Top Tip – budget party cave in the cellar.

Huw Gott and Will Beckett “do the ‘casual excellence’ thing very well indeed” and their still über-fashionable steakhouse chain (founded in 2006) occupies a niche in the hearts of London’s fooderati like no other, with its “distinctly clubby” (“big, loud and busy”) style, its “to-die-for cocktails” and its “top steaks”: British-bred and “char-grilled to perfection over wood fires, with deliciously indulgent sides”. Ratings for such a phenomenon have sometimes seemed middling in comparison to its renown – a reflection of the very full pricing that’s always been their policy. That said, despite some accusations that “it’s all gone downhill in recent times”, its grades actually bounced back significantly in the last survey, and remain in line with its past best. The City branch in particular shines. “Dark dens and out-of-this-world quality beef are the cornerstones of dealmaking. What deal would not reach a happy ending fuelled by a perfectly cooked rib-eye, grilled bone marrow, and beef dripping fries?”

“Andy Murray is a regular visitor (to the Wimbledon branch), and with good reason”, report fans of this “upmarket” group. Like Sir Andy, “great service” is a particular strength, while “the food is pretty authentic” too. Now an international operation, the first of its six London venues opened in 1990.

“Brilliant”, “fresh” and “unusual” Levantine flavours; “cheerful and helpful staff”; and “sunnily charming decoration” ensure these “above-average”, modern Middle Eastern bistros are “invariably lively and bustling”. The SW7 branch is a well-known fixture of the ‘Petit France’ enclave of South Kensington, while its two-year-old spin-off has made a good start establishing itself at the top end of Soho – “you can understand the popularity when food of such a high standard is produced at such very reasonable prices”.

“In a quiet residential corner of Kensington”, on a picture-book street – this “lovely and calm” pre-Victorian townhouse (established as a restaurant in 1985, and owned by D&D Restaurants since 2007) creates a sense of “privacy” that’s particularly “great for a romantic evening”. “Over the years there have been many changes of chef”, but since Ben Murphy joined in early 2017, the food rating here has been “on an upward trajectory” and his “exciting” cuisine – “fun, whimsical, delicious” – won impressively consistent praise this year. “Surely a Michelin star is now beckoning for this young chef”?

“Marvellous, exquisite Japanese food”, including “super-fresh fish” and “the best sushi in town that won’t break your wallet”, is served at this “very professional” Mayfair outfit. Popular with Vogue staffers, who call it the ‘Condé Nast canteen’, it has a “cosy” offshoot buried in a luxurious corner of Knightsbridge.

London’s longest-serving Lebanese group has served a “delicious and generous ensemble of mezze and mains” for almost four decades, remaining “admirably consistent over the years”. There are currently 14 branches under various names (including Ranoush, Beirut Express, Randa); and at the outlets actually branded as ‘Maroush’ the “decor is a bit 1980s” especially in the sedate main dining rooms. The better bets are the “casual” cafés at the original branch and in Beauchamp Place – “for a quick meal, you can’t go wrong”, especially from the bargain menu of wraps. For late-night live music and belly-dancing head to the original Edgware Road branch.

“The best and freshest oysters by far, with seasonal varieties from time to time…”; “superb plateau de fruits de mer”; and “super-fresh fish” from an “ever-changing selection of specials”, all make this small group of seafood bistros “easy to love”. The style is “busy and jostling” throughout – “be prepared to share your table with other diners” in some locations – in others “some of the tables are so close, you’ll make new friends whether you want to or not!”. The Borough Market original and South Kensington spin-off attract most (and most favourable) reports – other branches (including at Battersea) can seem “a welcome addition but nothing remarkable”.

“Crazy combinations, truly awesome at times” continue to wow all who taste the “meticulous” sushi and other modernised Japanese dishes at this duo of venues – an “awkward and tired-looking basement” in Marylebone (under chef Tomonari Chiba) and a “much-cooler-than-the original” setting in Knightsbridge (under chef Masaki Sugisaki). “I’ve wandered all round the menu with friends, and each bite was terrific”.

Arjun Waney and Rainer Becker’s “well-oiled” glamour-magnet, just off Knightsbridge, “has kept its high standards for more than 15 years now” (it opened in 2002, nowadays with spin-offs around the globe). In normal, non-Covid times, the cocktail bar is famously “a bit of a zoo”, but that just adds energy to its “buzzy” (“so noisy!”), “casual and comfortable” overall style; and even if Japanese-fusion cuisine doesn’t today seem like quite the genius-magic it did on opening, the “sublime” dishes here still feel as fresh as a daisy: “wonderous bites” of sushi, black cod and other “supreme” creations.

Providing “faithful” service to an expensively dressed clientele in one of Chelsea’s prettiest streets – this “lovely local” (too posh really to qualify as a ‘gastropub’) has an excellent buzz and consistently well-rated food. As always, though, there’s the odd grumble here about its price level.

Review: “Don’t be fooled by its prominent location, just off Piccadilly Circus, that it’s just one for the tourists” – this “bustling, noisy and so-atmospheric” Venetian brasserie (which also has a similar sibling, more tucked away in Covent Garden) “looks like a tourist trap, but offers an authentic culinary experience” with its “delicious small plates” (cicchetti) – “a format that caters to all appetites”, all at “reasonable prices”. Staff are “enthusiastic and professional” and “feed off the buzz of the place”, which “feels smart, even if tables are very close together”.

Self-taught Lebanese chef Mireille Hayek is bringing her Beirut-based Em Sherif restaurant concept to London (and Harrods, no less); she opened her first restaurant in 2006 and now has a 12-strong group across the Middle East.