Maidenhead, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Families having lunch overlooking the village green provides a quintessentially English atmosphere” at Dom Chapman’s “very busy” converted pub. One or two reports are so-so this year, but the majority of feedback is outstanding, praising a “thoroughly enjoyable” experience including “very individual” food that’s so good “I’m not sure it qualifies as pub food” – “amazing!”

Simon Bonwick’s acclaimed 20-seater pub is a family-run venture where often all front of house are from the clan: a feature whose “impact is clear from the moment you enter, with the warm and friendly greeting, followed through in terms of attentive service and an atmosphere more like a cosy home than a restaurant”. The cuisine takes a classic gastronomic approach, with “a short and punchy menu providing four or five options each for starter, main and dessert”. Results are splendid, and even those who feel it’s “a touch on the pricey side (with mains around £30)” feel “it’s money better spent than other poor meals for half the cost”.

2017 Review: “One of the best locations in the South East” (hugging the Thames at Boulters Lock) is the undeniable highlight of a trip to this Home Counties haunt, with an expansive terrace. The food escapes criticism, but if it were better this could be a major destination.