Sonning-on-Thames, RG4 6TN
Harden's survey result
Summary
“Old-fashioned, but in a top-quality way” – this Thames Valley stalwart enjoys “an outstanding location on the Thames” at Sonning Eye and is “like a step back in time”. Owned and run by the Emmanuel family since 1972, its interior is “comfortable and rather cosy and romantic too”; and you are well looked after (“even though we were the only diners on that particular occasion there was no sense of being rushed”). The odd reporter feels its “solid British menu” (with the speciality of their signature spit-roasted duck) is “due an overhaul”. But that’s a minority view – most of its (silver-haired) fans like it just the way it is. Top Tip – exceptional wine from the list: “it’s a Bible”. (The future direction of the business is slightly unclear. In September 2023, it was put on the market for £12m with Michael Emmanuel announcing: “It’s not easy to say goodbye to a place that has been the heart of our family for so long, but we’re eager to see the next chapter of its storied history unfold”. The asking price subsequently dropped to £8m several months later and as of October 2024 the restaurant’s website reads: “The French Horn has not been sold and is still being run enthusiastically by the Emmanuel family.”)
Summary
“Three generations of the same family have been pleasing visitors” to this Thames Valley bastion of traditional haute cuisine, owned by the Emmanuel family since 1972 and with a first-class position overlooking the water at Sonning Eye. The famous signature “roast duck on the spit is the best”, while “the fab wine list is worth taking home to salivate over”. While a minority of reporters caution that it is “very good but too expensive”, most feel the high quality justifies the investment.
Summary
“The setting on the Thames at Sonning Eye is just fantastic, but better still, the quality of the food that comes out of the kitchen is always first class”, according to fans of this long-established and well-known Thames-valley institution, which has been owned by the Emmanuel family since 1972. “If you like formal, this is the place to go”, and while fans acknowledge that “it’s a little pricey”, they feel the investment is “well worth it for special occasions”. As well as its signature duck, spit-roasted over an open fire, it’s “very impressive wine list” is another feature (“we call it ‘The Bible’”).
Summary
A “lovely location for a lazy lunch or dinner” – this traditional and “very enjoyable” Thames-valley staple sits just over the bridge from picturesque Sonning and is best known for its signature duck, spit-roasted over an open fire. Even fans can note prices are “somewhat toppish”, however, and critics feel it is “seriously overpriced for satisfactory but old-school French fine dining”.
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Have you eaten at The French Horn?
Owner's description
Now a restaurant with rooms, it has been run by the Emmanuel family since 1972, when it was bought by restaurateurs Ronnie and Carole Emmanuel. The French Horn is now run by their son and daughter, Michael and Elaine. Michael trained in Lyon under Paul Bocuse and in Mougins under Roger Verge.
He and Elaine then opened a restaurant in London which was awarded with a prestigious Michelin star.
Michael and Elaine’s great-grandfather was an oysterman in Whitstable. His son, Bernard Walsh, moved to London and opened Wheelers, the famous fish restaurant, which later expanded to a number of seafood restaurants across the capital.
Bernard’s daughter Carole carried on the family food tradition by training in Paris and then at La Pyramide in Vienne. Her husband, Ronnie Emmanuel, took over Wheelers, while Carole bought The French Horn. The family have also owned oyster beds in Colchester and lobster fisheries in Scotland; and they bring their understanding of seafood to The French Horn’s menu
The family’s passions for fresh ingredients and French cooking can be felt in every dish that comes from The French Horn’s kitchens. This combined with Michael’s skills at developing a splendid wine cellar make dining at The French Horn a real pleasure.
Prices
Drinks | |
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Wine per bottle | £63.00 |
Filter Coffee | £4.00 |
Extras | |
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Service | 10.00% |
Restaurant details
The chef
Our Head Chef – Josiane Diaga
Josiane Diaga has cooked in many of the best Michelin-starred restaurants in London (including The Waldorf) and in France (The Hotel Negresco in Nice); and prior to joining us was Head Chef at a prestigious restaurant in America.
Josiane has the French passion for using the best seasonal produce. She always cooks with the diner in mind, never losing sight of their enjoyment; and she truly understands how to get the best from her ingredients, sourcing delicacies throughout the year.
The French Horn Restaurant Diner Reviews
"This Pub, whilst in a sensationally beautiful setting on the River and oozing ambience, especially on a cold day when the fires are lit, is lacking in the food department. The food is OK but would be better aiming for fine Pub Fare, rather than restaurant standard. "