London Cambridge Heath Restaurant Guide

“Exquisite…”, “Superbly inventive…” – few restaurants attract such consistently superlative feedback and ratings as Rafael Cagali’s “worthy successor to Viajante and The Typing Room” in Bethnal Green’s former town hall. Influenced by his Brazilian heritage, the dishes are “fantastic and unique” with “superb ingredients and precise execution” running through the entire, three-hour tasting menu (which is £245 per person; £180 per person at lunch). “Knowledgeable and friendly staff and the lovely space combine to create an exceptional culinary experience”. The only gripe is the obvious one – it’s mightily pricey. On practically all accounts, though, it’s “worth it” and “seems to get better every time”.

“Basic in decor and set-up, but given the delicious food and solid buzz, who cares?” – this “busy” Hackney Italian gets its swing from “staff who clearly want to be at work and have a good time”; not to mention, in summer, its superb location on Regent’s Canal complete with heated terrace. The Italian food is also far from an afterthought and can be “fabulous” (“a wild mushroom squid and lardo dish was sweet, mushrooms intense with the seafood playing its part; sardine pasta and pheasant were both excellent – well-cooked, well-balanced, well-seasoned and with great little touches”).

“A real event, with very complex and often-experimental food” – Gabriel & Patricia Waterhouse’s “temple of high cuisine” started out in his flat and, since 2021, has occupied this Scandi-esque, high-ceilinged, light-filled space near Regent’s Canal. Bookings are available for 1-6 diners and much of the seating is at communal tables, to which the ‘Long Form Menu’ at £155 per person is served at peak times (with cheaper options at quieter times). “There’s practically no choice on wine: either you have the wines provided or you have the non-alcoholic versions (same price)”. All reports agree this is “amazing” cooking – “you might not love it all, but you will certainly find it interesting!” – and there’s a general feeling that it is also “very good value for a great gastronomic experience”. As to the overall set-up, while the odd report says the seating is “a bit rag tag”, most say “don’t be put off by the supperclub set-up or shared tables”.

“Slightly off the beaten track but worth the trek” – Max Rocha’s “joyous” if “minimalist” Hackney canalside spot is “a fantastic venue, and a slightly quirky one given the charming but industrial view”. It inspires nothing but upbeat feedback for “French bistro food (e.g. Onglet & Chips) cooked to perfection”; and it does a “very good breakfast” too. “Busy, but they don’t hurry you”.

Chef Rafael Cagali’s “casual option” – next door to his high-flying Da Terra in the old Bethnal Green Town Hall – “has rather flown under the radar” since opening two years ago; but it’s a “most underrated restaurant”, whose “fabulous” small plates reflect the founder’s Italian-Brazilian background. There’s also “great music”: it takes its name from bossa nova singer Elis Regina. Top Menu Tip – “Palm Heart and Scamorza pastel – absolute heaven!”

“Having started as a pop-up these guys are going from strength to strength” – Freddie Sheen & Zac Whittle opened their first permanent home in Cambridge Heath in March 2022. “It’s one of the better options amongst the plethora of small-plates-and-wine joints to have opened all over east London (seemingly avoiding PR hype but nevertheless constantly packed, mainly from word of mouth)”. There is a tasting option (for £50-60 per person), but most meals are à la carte featuring “imaginative flavour combinations done to a consistent standard and at comparatively friendly prices”. Service is “friendly” and there’s a good “buzz” (although not everyone is sold on its recent expansion).

“Brilliant combination of flavours” – from a menu of modern European small plates from chef Michael Robins – twinned with “interesting low-intervention wine from superstar sommelier and co-owner Honey Spencer” (who contributes to “some of the best service in town”), have won instant acclaim for this “lovely, relaxed Scandi-vibes” newcomer near Hackney’s hip Broadway Market. Press critics have raved and reports in our annual diners’ poll likewise view it as an “all-round knockout”: “a place to visit regularly” if you live out East, and if not “a bit out-of-the-way, but worth the trip!”.

These noodle bars are “great if you need a quick and satisfying lunch” – either in the original Soho branch, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, or its offshoots in the City’s Bloomberg Arcade and Hackney. They specialise in udon noodles, which are fatter than ramen and served in a more refined and traditional Japanese dashi stock.

Vibrant Andean dishes – including distinctive ceviche, tiradito and causa starters (and with lots for vegans and veggies) – win a thumbs-up (if on limited feedback) for this September 2023 newcomer in Hackney’s hip Broadway Market, which marks the return to the capital of former Lima (Fitzrovia) head chef Robert Ortiz (who also launched the original Chakana in Birmingham four years ago).