Evening Standard
Jimi Famurewa visited a new Korean restaurant “like no other in the capital” – a two-generational father-and-sons project combining old school and new school in a minimalist modern shoebox of a setting.
“There is Aesop in the loos, but a collagen salad on the menu and a bowed paterfamilias in the kitchen. The result is a justifiably hyped, word-of-mouth success that honestly may be one of the best places I have eaten at this year. They talk a good game here. But, holy cow, do they back it up.”
Miga is apparently Korean for beef, and the appropriate highlights of Jimi’s meal were galbijjim (soy-braised short ribs) – “an abominably flavoursome, all-weather stew of evanescent, slow-cooked vegetables, beef so tremulously tender it slips from the bone with the gentlest spoon-nudge” – and the signature seolleongtangan, an “ambrosial, milky, cleanly mineral” ox-bone broth available neat or as the base for an “enthralling noodle soup”.
Jimi Famurewa - 2024-08-18
