Evening Standard
David Ellis felt disconcertingly like he was “dining in an immersive imagining of Hopper’s Nighthawks, refashioned for the East End”, at Chinese-Vietnamese chef Eric Wan’s ‘new wave Asian eatery and wine bar’ set under a railway arch.
A “crisp, thoughtfully succinct menu” of three snacks, four starters, three mains and one pudding, all of them carefully and sometimes brilliantly cooked, is served on what David called “granny plates”. “The hungry should wave a hand and blithely order it all,” he advised.
Stand-out dishes included giant king prawns that “leapt from their shells, masterfully barbecued over a konro grill and finished with [a] blowtorch”, with a beautiful sauce fragrant with lemongrass, “the kind to keep spooning over and over while insisting the other person finishes it off.” Onglet salad, meanwhile, saw a French comfort dish transformed into something beyond Asian.
David Ellis - 2026-01-11Evening Standard
David Ellis felt disconcertingly like he was “dining in an immersive imagining of Hopper’s Nighthawks, refashioned for the East End”, at Chinese-Vietnamese chef Eric Wan’s ‘new wave Asian eatery and wine bar’ set under a railway arch.
A “crisp, thoughtfully succinct menu” of three snacks, four starters, three mains and one pudding, all of them carefully and sometimes brilliantly cooked, is served on what David called “granny plates”. “The hungry should wave a hand and blithely order it all,” he advised.
Stand-out dishes included giant king prawns that “leapt from their shells, masterfully barbecued over a konro grill and finished with [a] blowtorch”, with a beautiful sauce fragrant with lemongrass, “the kind to keep spooning over and over while insisting the other person finishes it off.” Onglet salad, meanwhile, saw a French comfort dish transformed into something beyond Asian.
David Ellis - 2026-01-11The Times
Camilla Long approved hugely of a Vietnamese-Chinese(ish) place in a railway arch down an alley opposite the Young V&A which “gets the effort/coolness ratio right” and offers a menu that is “short and authoritative. Can we just pause for a moment on the luxury of not having much to choose from?”
The shrimp toast is the “Big Dish… a swaggering brick of deep-fried dough not dissimilar to confit potatoes in appearance, with a lash of bright green chilli sauce, actual prawns embedded like treasure inside”, while cheung fun consisted of “great succulent chunks of chewy noodle with 10/10 mouth appeal, sloshed together with peppercorns, biquinhos and gossamer shavings of endive.”
And “Oh God — the puddings”, Camilla swooned, “there’s nothing more Vietnamese than madeleines, especially pimped ones like these… with hot butter, honey and a slug of salt.”
Camilla Long - 2026-03-29
