Evening Standard
David Ellis felt disconcertingly like he was “dining in an immersive imagining of Hopper’s Nighthawks, refashioned for the East End”, at Chinese-Vietnamese chef Eric Wan’s ‘new wave Asian eatery and wine bar’ set under a railway arch.
A “crisp, thoughtfully succinct menu” of three snacks, four starters, three mains and one pudding, all of them carefully and sometimes brilliantly cooked, is served on what David called “granny plates”. “The hungry should wave a hand and blithely order it all,” he advised.
Stand-out dishes included giant king prawns that “leapt from their shells, masterfully barbecued over a konro grill and finished with [a] blowtorch”, with a beautiful sauce fragrant with lemongrass, “the kind to keep spooning over and over while insisting the other person finishes it off.” Onglet salad, meanwhile, saw a French comfort dish transformed into something beyond Asian.
David Ellis - 2026-01-11Evening Standard
David Ellis felt disconcertingly like he was “dining in an immersive imagining of Hopper’s Nighthawks, refashioned for the East End”, at Chinese-Vietnamese chef Eric Wan’s ‘new wave Asian eatery and wine bar’ set under a railway arch.
A “crisp, thoughtfully succinct menu” of three snacks, four starters, three mains and one pudding, all of them carefully and sometimes brilliantly cooked, is served on what David called “granny plates”. “The hungry should wave a hand and blithely order it all,” he advised.
Stand-out dishes included giant king prawns that “leapt from their shells, masterfully barbecued over a konro grill and finished with [a] blowtorch”, with a beautiful sauce fragrant with lemongrass, “the kind to keep spooning over and over while insisting the other person finishes it off.” Onglet salad, meanwhile, saw a French comfort dish transformed into something beyond Asian.
David Ellis - 2026-01-11
