Fitzrovia, Italian Restaurant Guide

It’s hard to keep up with this “lovely Soho old-timer” which was founded in 1971 but has shifted location twice since it first opened its doors (most recently in 2021 from Poland Street). First timers say “what a surprise, it’s really good!” and those in-the-know (who include former Prime Minister, Gordon Brown, who had his engagement party at the former site) appreciate it as “a very friendly family-run ‘real’ Italian restaurant in the heart of the West End”. “Delicious seafood and fish dishes” in particular are a highlight of the Umbria-inspired menu; and owner Paul Matteucci (son of Vasco) is “an exceptional host” (particularly once you are known as a regular). Top Menu Tip – “the carpaccio di tonno is outstanding”; and “the range, quality and value of wine is immense and very difficult to find in these inflation-hit days”.

“Twenty years old and still a reasonable choice” – this duo serving Spanish/Italian tapas “remains a cut above the average”, at both the original Fitzrovia original venue and a newer site in Borough Market (an outpost at Westfield Shepherd’s Bush was short-lived). However, “there are now many more similar places available” than when quality tapas seemed a rarity in the capital, and some long-term fans dwell on the fact that they’ve “gone downhill” over the decades, now feeling “slightly more expensive than they should be”.

With its “lovely Italian vibe in Charlotte Street”, this Fitzrovia townhouse provides a high-quality, under-the-radar experience. Launched in 2019, it’s a slightly offbeat part of hotel group The Stafford Collection, although aside from its smart interior that’s the only hint of a wider group connection. The cooking is inspired by the crossover of southern Italian and Moorish cuisine (“I fell in love with Sicily a year or two ago and this is what I’ve been looking for!”) and the culinary offering is “delightful (albeit not cheap)”. Top Menu Tips – “the spaghetti fritters are more addictive than crack!”; and “the set lunch is an absolute steal”.

When it launched in Soho 10 years ago, the Salt Yard group (of which it’s part) was zeitgeistily surfing the tapas trend sweeping London: here, using the wood-fired grill to put a spin on its Spanish and Italian-inspired sharing plates. It’s still a stylish place (although the odd fan feels the decor “is a bit tired” now), and wins uniform praise for delivering “super tasty” results.