Covent Garden, Burgers, Etc Restaurant Guide

2019 Review: “Sitting above the indoor market at Covent Garden adds to the greasy-spoon vibe” of this central spin-off from the MEATliquor chain – “a good spot for a quick burger fix when out-and-about for the day in town”. There’s “not a worry about calories in sight” – just “burgers at their best, an excellent choice of sides (e.g. chilli cheese fries, monkey fingers and jalapeno poppaz) that add a bit of fire to the proceedings; and the milkshakes are a must-try!”

2021 Review: In less than 20 years, Danny Meyer has transformed his New York City hot-dog cart into a global fast-food brand giant with eight outlets in London – including a Covent Garden flagship that was revamped earlier this year. Ratings remain remarkably solid for “a chain that does what it’s supposed to do”.

2021 Review: “When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

“Excellent tapas” – “served in a refurbished traditional pub”, “with a relaxed atmosphere” – makes this Spanish-Italian, small-plates venue on two storeys a useful address in Covent Garden. Part of the Salt Yard chain, it was revamped to good effect following a change of ownership three years ago.

“Perfectly aged, hung and cooked – this place is steak-heaven”. Huw Gott and Will Beckett absolutely nailed it with this zeitgeisty 15-year-old chain of steakhouses, which they still part-own (and which – in July 2021 – announced the possibility, later cancelled, of floating on the London Stock Exchange to fuel future growth). For a generation of London restaurant-goers, “Hawksmoor hits it every single time” and the increasing introduction of fish from a dedicated buyer at Brixham market is a popular (and wise) innovation. Is it finally becoming a victim of its own success though? Ratings slipped notably this year due to an assortment of non-pandemic-related gripes (“beginning to feel formulaic…”; “just not tasty enough for such high prices…”; “still knocks out a succulent ribeye, but not what it was…”). Still, in late 2021 they’re gearing up for the biggest and most ambitious space yet, and their first branch amidst the scrapers of Canary Wharf. Spread over three levels, it will be housed in an eco-friendly floating pavilion made from sustainably sourced timber decking, aluminium extracted from hydro sources, and with a green roof planted with wildflowers and grasses! [Instead of the wildflowers and grasses and aluminium extracted from hydro sources, should we all maybe just eat less meat!? Ed]

“Still great fun” – this easy-going American-style all-day restaurant sealed its long-running status as a key Theatreland venue a couple of years ago when it moved – lock, stock and resident piano-player – to a new Covent Garden address, after Robert de Niro requisitioned its former basement for his new hotel. “Excellent brunch” is the best bet food-wise – “dinner not so much” – although for a bite post-show it remains something of an institution. From late 2021, another option is a visit to Joe’s Bar, overseen by Russell Norman (who started his restaurant career here as a waiter in the 1990s). Top Tip: the off-menu burger is always available – this is, after all, a 1970s spin-off from the original NYC Joe Allen. (Note, founder Joe Allen passed away in February 2021, aged 87. His advice to would-be restaurateurs? “Think twice!”).

Gordon Ramsay’s Byron might be a better name for Big Sweary’s new burger chain, which – in its first year of operation – has already taken three of Byron’s former branches into its own stable. Launched in the City at the One New Change development in December 2020, after trials at several pop-ups: it’s run along similar lines to his Street Pizza brand – all burgers cost £15, and include fries and unlimited soft drinks. (One New Change also houses GR’s decade-old Bread Street Kitchen, for which a national roll-out is planned). It didn’t take long before more branches came along, on the former Byron branch on Charing Cross Road; on High Street Kensington, in Islington and – biggest of all – an 175-seater in the O2.

2021 Review: “When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

Gordon Ramsay’s Byron might be a better name for Big Sweary’s new burger chain, which – in its first year of operation – has already taken three of Byron’s former branches into its own stable. Launched in the City at the One New Change development in December 2020, after trials at several pop-ups: it’s run along similar lines to his Street Pizza brand – all burgers cost £15, and include fries and unlimited soft drinks. (One New Change also houses GR’s decade-old Bread Street Kitchen, for which a national roll-out is planned). It didn’t take long before more branches came along, on the former Byron branch on Charing Cross Road; on High Street Kensington, in Islington and – biggest of all – an 175-seater in the O2.