Charing Cross, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

Black & white pictures of actors past and present line the “iconic panelled dining rooms” of this “absolute classic” in Theatreland (est. 1896) – “still the benchmark for fish and seafood” in London; and still the capital’s No.1 most-mentioned entry in our annual diners’ poll; and still “always packed”. Located in an unpromising back alley off St Martin’s Lane, you navigate past the uniformed doorman and opaque windows to the “very classy” and “old school” interior, which is “divided into smaller rooms, lending a degree of privacy and keeping the noise down” (not always successfully). A superb variety of fresh dishes is “impeccably” (if “unadventurously”) realised, with Dover Sole (“cooked on the bone then prepared by the waiter”) and Fish Pie most often featuring in reports. This year, there’s a feeling that “though very good, it’s now relatively expensive for quality versus its peers”: a particular gripe is the “rather overpriced” wine.

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

Despite a fine NYC pedigree; a selection of top-quality imported USDA steaks; and a ‘prestige’ location, at the foot of the Adelphi (just off the Strand), this US steakhouse has never made waves in the capital. When it does, it’s often for the wrong reasons, with too many complaints either that it’s “overpriced” or “very disappointing”.

“One of the best fish restaurants anywhere” – Costas Spiladis’s London outpost of his luxurious international chain channels the brilliance of the Mediterranean, with its bright, white walls and high ceiling. “The fish is displayed beautifully on ice at one end of the venue and hosed down every 20 mins or so” – “a fantastic selection that always delivers a fabulous meal”. Sadly, though, you have to be a Greek shipping magnate to afford it nowadays (“just reading the menu is a shock”), and even those who think it’s “worth the hype” can find it “so eye-wateringly expensive, I think it might be one visit per year from now on”. Those less well disposed to it, say “if you like being served a smidgen of food and being charged a fortune, this restaurant is for you!”

“Constantly updated on blackboards, you find a selection of fresh oysters, crab, lobster, other seafood, and fish to choose from” at this “brilliant little place” in Covent Garden, which “despite its location in the central touristic area, doesn’t feel expensive”. “Tables and chairs are a bit basic” though – it’s “pleasant and convivial” enough, but “you do pretty much have to accept being part of the next table’s conversation”.

Gordon Ramsay’s two-year-old tenure has yet to dazzle at this Thames-side dining room (which, two years ago – when Gordon took it over – returned to the name under which it was launched in 1890 and has traded under for much of the last century). From its days as Kaspar’s (RIP), it continues a fish and seafood theme – now with a fashionable raw bar – and there are also a few meat grills on the menu. But few dishes catch the eye from the somewhat “unremarkable” selection and it can be “difficult to find something you fancy”. And, when they arrive, too often results are “only moderately good” or plain “disappointing”.

“A glorious spot for a boozy seafood bite, watching Soho stroll past” – this “always busy” and “buzzy” venue was converted over 25 years ago from an atmospheric old butcher’s shop (est 1911) and oozes quirky Edwardian charm. Perch on a stool, and “exuberant staff” will serve you fizz and “expert fish dishes” (“simple, but cooked beautifully – fruits de mers, oysters, pints of prawns”). “It’s not the most comfortable time, but worth it for the quality of the food and general ambience”. “Long live R&A”.

The “super-fresh fish” – “simply prepared” and “never overcooked” – “never disappoints” at this “good value” trio of West End seafood brasseries, in Covent Garden, Marylebone and Swallow Street, off Piccadilly.

Thirty years ago, this vast basement – a 1929 ballroom which later fell on hard times to be rescued and relaunched with a tsunami of hype by the late Sir Terence Conran – was emblematic of the sweeping improvements in the capital’s dining out scene. Nowadays run under the flag of D&D London, it’s largely forgotten by the locals and most frequented for special occasions by out-of-towners and tourists, for whom its attractions include a large bar and regular live music. Reports on the food used to be awful, but have improved in recent years and although feedback on its posh-brasserie cuisine is limited it’s much more upbeat than it once was. Top Menu Tip – good value prix-fixe options for brunch (£39 for two courses, with bottomless bubbles for £35); and dinner Mon-Thu till 7pm then after 8.30pm (£38 for three courses and a glass of fizz).

“The lobster roll is just lovely” at this surf’n’turf-meets-burger chain, where you’ll find “plenty of very tasty grub”. “I was expecting to be disappointed, but the food was excellent”. A dozen years on from its launch, the group’s nine London venues tend to be “full of people done up for a big night out, taking lots of selfies for their Insta”.

The “super-fresh fish” – “simply prepared” and “never overcooked” – “never disappoints” at this “good value” trio of West End seafood brasseries, in Covent Garden, Marylebone and Swallow Street, off Piccadilly.