Berkshire, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

In summer 2023, citing the need to ‘slow down’, TV chef Antony Worrall Thompson bowed out from his Oxfordshire gastropub after nearly two decades at the helm (the latter part of which was overshadowed by controversies relating to its anti-vaxxer stance, and, more recently, a worrying hygiene rating). While David Brown, who heads up Marlow’s Royal Oak has stepped into AWT’s shoes (the latter will remain on hand as a consultant), head chef Jamie Webber remains from the previous line-up, which should ensure continuity when it comes to the popular venue’s “generous” and “well-cooked” pub grub.

One of the UK’s first wave of modern gastropubs (est. 1989, pipping the Eagle in Farringdon by a couple of years), this Chilterns village boozer serves an “imaginative menu which changes daily” in a “great atmosphere”. But there’s more to it: founder Paul Clerehugh is a former guitarist with 1970s glamrockers The Sweet, and organises “great music nights” in the pub’s heated marquee, attracting an eclectic line-up of performers (George Harrison in the early years; last year, Nigel Kennedy, the Bay City Rollers and Geno Washington).

2022 Review: “This superb gastropub” – an eighteenth-century inn “two minutes from the Thames and convenient for London day-trippers” – serves “interesting food with some high gastronomy”: “all produce is locally sourced, and bread made and butter churned in-house”. Husband-and-wife patrons Nick & Mary Galer (both ex-Fat Duck Group) “clearly care about what they do and look after their diners”. Ratings dropped a notch this year amid reports of “the odd off note” – possibly they “need a bit more practice after lockdown”.

A Georgian country house hotel packed with British post-war art and “within easy reach of London” for the mini-break set; Skye Gyngell of Petersham Nurseries Café fame oversees the two restaurants, with Marle being the fancier, orangery-style dining room with a Michelin Green Star reflecting the hotel’s focus on sustainability. As in previous years, not everyone is convinced by the pared-back dishes, with those who “enjoyed the occasion” counterbalanced by those who found it “somewhat lacking – expected more”. But even cynics concede it’s still “above average”.

The ‘live-fire’ option at this Hampshire spa hotel offers “excellent if expensive food from the marvellous Skye Gyngell”, making best use of “lovely locally grown ingredients” and of an informal setting in the old stable block – for some guests it’s their “favourite of the Heckfield Place restaurants”, in preference to the more formal dining room-based Marle.

All-day outfit on the riverside highly commended for a “beautifully cooked and presented breakfast at very reasonable prices” – “the bonus is a great location if weather permits sitting outside”. It’s also a “solid venue for lunch” and later, with tacos, poke bowls, burgers as well as more substantial fare, including a “good vegan selection”. Founder Shaun Dickens was a hot-shot young chef at Le Manoir and Per Se in New York, but reined in his culinary ambitions to suit the venue.

“What a gem of a gastropub” – “creativity and good value” (“the set lunch menu is a tremendous bargain”) are the hallmarks of the cooking from chef Ben Watson, who returned to his home district in 2022 after working for some of London’s top chefs (Gordon Ramsay, Jason Atherton, Clare Smyth) to take over this well-established foodie venue just outside Henley. His wife Priya (ex-Gymkhana) runs the front of house, and the occasional South Asian twist on the modern British menu reflects her heritage.

“A charming venue in a picture-postcard village location” – this “excellent” pub-with-rooms has a “lovely bright restaurant serving superb food” with influences from around the world, and a “good range of private dining options”. Charles I is said to have dined here during the English Civil War.

“A fabulous setting right on the River Thames” – a stretch of water admired by writers from HG Wells to Kenneth Graham – makes this former boathouse ideal for “al-fresco dining” – or a “superior traditional Sunday lunch”. If most reporters reckon “the cooking is OK but nothing to write home about”, it’s “still a good place to sit and just look at the view”.

This “truly exceptional” establishment near the Hampshire/Berkshire border strikes “a nice balance between a traditional pub and a gastropub, combining the best of both”. Jason King & Simon Page are notching up their 21st year here in 2025, and “the consistency of the quality over the last two decades has been great”, with “delicious food” on a blackboard menu that’s “always interesting” and “impeccable service”.

“So pleased we went… the food, service and table decor was excellent and we look forward to going again” – this traditional pub on the village green parted ways with Dominic Chapman in 2023 and its nowadays run as part of a growing genre of UK establishments as an Indian-in-a-pub, serving fish ’n’ chips with curry sauce, chicken tikka burger… and on Sunday it’s tandoori chicken roast.

“Very much a local gem” – “Dom Chapman’s pub/restaurant remains a most attractive and well-run establishment”, with a “cosy and inviting interior”, “friendly staff” and a “great-value set menu if you want to save some money as well”. Ratings have slipped a notch on reports of some “pedestrian and inconsistent” dishes, but the broader message is of a “great local”.

2022 Review: The former Land’s End pub got a new lease of life (and name) in 2018 when it was taken over by Niki & Adam Fortes, and the best man at their wedding, Colin Savory (both Colin and Adam having a pedigree at top restaurants). The “great” countryside setting is enhanced by “superbly cooked” pub staples and finer fare and “you can tell there are real chefs in the kitchen”.

2022 Review: For “restaurant-quality food in a lovely country setting” head to this country pub, a few miles from Henley-on-Thames. The venue has been serving locals since 1860, and continues to draw positive reports for its simple yet refined seasonal plates.

Owned by Henry Day, and with head chef Adam Hague — a tastefully decorated pub in this posh town launched in December 2024 with a flexible menu incorporating small and large plates and majoring in grills (various steaks, house blue-cheese burger, spatchcock poussin…). Some pleasing initial reports thus far, but not enough for a full rating – reports please!

2024 Review: “What a return” – chef Simon Bonwick is back on home turf at this diminutive and “lovely” sixteenth-century village pub, not far from The Crown at Burchetts Green, where he established a stellar reputation for classic French cooking over the previous decade. His food is “fabulous” – “precisely cooked with all the flavour you expect and more” (not least the “renowned” pies), and front of house (including wife Deborah) are “delightful, warm and welcoming with a smile”. PS – the chef himself created the artwork lining the quirky venue’s walls.