Red meat still rules in the City

The City of London’s notorious appetite for red meat shows no sign of abating, with the opening of two new steakhouses within 10 minutes’ walk of each other this week.

The Four Seasons hotel at Tower Bridge has replaced La Dame de Pic, its highly rated French restaurant from visiting star chef Anne-Sophie Pic, with a “modern steakhouse” called Cooper’s Cut, named after Sir Edwin Cooper, the architect of the building.

Exec chef Luke Armstrong (ex-Ledbury) has developed a menu featuring Angus and Blue Grey beef from the Lake District and Wagyu steaks imported from Japan. The wine list is backed up by a serious martini selection – including a ‘Three Martini Mid-Day’ flight of three different martinis to highlight a three-course meal.

Meanwhile, 500 yards away at Leadenhall Market is MRBL, where the focus is on British grass-fed beef from Yorkshire and Norfolk, dry-aged for 35 days and cooked over charcoal by a team led by chef Matt Colk, previously of The Gun and Fish Game in Canary Wharf. The name is derived (and possibly pronounced) from the marbling of fat in high-quality steaks.

Ten minutes’ walk north is another relatively new steakhouse, Liverpool Street Chop House and Tavern, which opened in September, taking its place alongside at least half a dozen long-established red meat venues.

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