Old Town Restaurant Guide

“On a dark winter’s night there is nowhere more romantic than The Witchery” – a rambling, dramatic, candle-lit space constructed from buildings at the gates of the castle that date back to 1595. Once, Auld Reekie’s most famous restaurant address, nowadays it’s not as prominent as some in the City but still a favourite for a special date (so long as it’s of the expense-be-damned variety!). Regulars have their favourite space – be it the intricately wood-panelled room at the front or the rear ‘Secret Garden’. Its traditional Scottish fare was more consistently rated this year although it’s not unfair to say that the cellar – which has 600 bins – regularly eclipses the menu. For the full romantic experience, book one of their incredible bedrooms.

“Good solid restaurants like this deserve our support” – a “small but friendly” New Town bistro, overseen by Marcelline Levicky, that has been around forever and turns out pitch-perfect Gallic cooking (onion soup, rabbit pies, moules) that also comes at a “great price”. While that price has crept up slowly over the years, it remains a steal: the two-course lunch is £20.90, the two-course dinner £34.50.

2023 Review: This “buzzing and reliable” home-grown homage to New York-style pizza sells its “great” versions by the slice – “the slices are enormous and one will suffice most people” – in four outlets with a “quirky vibe and music (American rock and hip-hop)”. “Their motto is branded on every cup and menu: ‘Death Before Dominos’!”

All Corinthian columns, marble and palm trees – the Graeco-Roman former HQ of the Commercial Bank of Scotland is unquestionably a “beautiful and opulent” space (and “particularly special at Christmas with a maximalist tree and decorations”). There are a range of dining areas in which to enjoy the surroundings, from a classy afternoon tea in The Georgian Tea Room, to The Grill Room, which offers à la carte and a table d’hôte; while most feedback was on the setting, there’s “good, solid bistro-style food” to go with it (with a “special mention to the Cullen Skink, up there with the best”).

Executive pastry chef Ross Sneddon (ex-of Claridge’s) is, say fans, “the best in the country so it is no wonder the afternoon tea is simply outstanding” at what they hail as “Edinburgh’s best hotel by miles”. While a visit to its glass-domed, leafy lounge is “more performance art than afternoon tea” – all “Victorian grandeur, hushed conversations” and “harpist serenading guests”, it’s “one of those bucket-list experiences for wealthy tourists” – there’s no doubting the “to-die-for patisserie”.

Abu Dhabi royal Sheikh Tahnoon bin Zayed al-Nahyan was – as of mid 2025 – rumoured to be on the verge of buying a £1 billion stake in Richard Caring’s restaurant empire, of which this famous brasserie chain is the crown jewel. Presumably, he’s more interested in ‘rolling out’ the brand in The Gulf and beyond rather than dropping by for a Salmon Fishcake and ‘Ivy Chocolate Bombe’, but if he’d asked the opinion of our annual diners’ poll, we’re not sure that he’d sign on the dotted line. “How can a restaurant with this heritage produce such uninspired, tick-box food?” is a question merited by its poor ratings, ditto what explains the “very slow and disinterested service”? The answer may be that “you don’t come here for the food, obviously” but for the “gorgeous” interior design and “picturesque” locations that continue to underpin their appeal. Let’s hope for the Sheikh’s sake that the middle classes of the Arab World are as undiscerning as those from the UK!

“It’s good to see innovative and regular changes to the menu”, say fans of these “enjoyable” Mexican street-food operations, which win many nominations for their “cheap ’n’ cheerful formula, including a “fresh and flavourful” menu majoring in tacos, quesadillas and tostadas”. On the downside, for long-term fans, “the food doesn’t seem as fresh as it used to years ago, by which standard it feels mass produced”.

“Beautiful, austere candle-lit decor” makes the Radford family’s brick-walled warehouse (originally built as a props and costume store) in the city-centre an atmospheric choice as well as a culinarily accomplished one. It is rated on limited feedback in this year’s annual diners’ poll, continuing the high marks of last year, and ongoing reports of “exceptional” meals match its reputation as one of Michelin’s few starred restaurants in the city. The evening five-course tasting menu is £130 per person.

The No 2 restaurant in this “fantastic hotel” – “isn’t ground-breaking but it is useful, as a hotel restaurant should be”. Fans say its classic French cooking is “better than normally found with a captive audience… perhaps because it has to be with so many other options close by”.

“Yummy and fun, with good service” – key selling points of this phenomenal Indian chain, which chose this branch on St Andrew’s Square as its first launchpad outside London when it opened in 2016. Its mix of vibey ‘Irani’-café inspired interior and menu of ‘Bombay comfort food’ is consistently well-rated all-round, but here north of the border the mix doesn’t inspire the crazy love that it does in the English capital.

“First-rate Indian tapas coupled with brisk-but-not-brusque service” is the pleasing offer at this “efficiently run” offshoot of the well-known Glasgow group. There’s “often a slight twist to the dishes to elevate your eating experience further”, and it’s “such good value, especially the lunchtime set menu”.

2024 Review: With its imposing facade, stained glass, corniced ceilings, polished wood and brass, we maintain a listing for this busy Victorian institution (est. 1863 and nowadays run by the Metropolitan Pub Company) as much as a cultural experience as it is a culinary one. Seafood dishes and platters are the best choices here.

“Prime cuts of matured beef served in striking surroundings with a carefully curated wine list, which includes some rarities albeit at a premium price” wins similarly enthusiastic feedback for this Scots outpost of the famous chain, which inhabits the former National Bank of Scotland’s Banking Hall – the elegant main public space of this Grade A listed building. Those familiar with the brand accept the fact that it’s “somewhat expensive” is the trade-off you accept to partake of the experience. Top Tip – for value seekers, the Monday Wine Club does offer BYOB for £5 corkage.

2025 Review: “You’d have to travel a long way to find another dining room as grand” as this sumptuous cupola-topped venue – the eye-catching old Bank of Scotland above Waverley station – which is now part of the first city hotel spin-off from the storied Perthshire hotel (replete with “beautiful” bedrooms, rooftop bar and members’ club). Some 98 years younger than that grand icon, which celebrated its centenary in 2024, the all-day restaurant, which turns out upscale brasserie fare from sharing dishes to a decadent dessert trolley, failed this year to elicit huge amounts of feedback: brunch, previously a highlight, is now once-monthly only, while the other victuals can seem “good but not exciting”, thus “not up to the elevated surroundings”.

2024 Review: Jean-Michel Gauffre is the mastermind behind this “pleasing, modest French establishment”, in the Old Town; a firm fixture since its launch in 2001, it turns out hearty Gallic cooking with a particular focus on the Languedoc, alongside an excellent value lunchtime ‘Menu du Jour’.