London Victoria Restaurant Guide

A post-War gem in Westminster, this “bright, Formica-tabled institution serves old-fashioned greasy-spoon fare” and is a place of retro pilgrimage nowadays. Don’t be put off by the “intimidating queue, which moves reasonably quickly – and there’s always a table miraculously free in the end”. “We returned for the first time in six years and it’s still as great as it ever was…” – in fact, it’s barely changed since opening in 1946.

2021 Review: “Ignore the lobbyists feeding MPs and enjoy this for what it is” – a smart, traditionally decorated corner-spot that’s one of the only restaurants in Westminster worth going to eat in! “Italian through and through”, it features “many regional dishes” and “unusual takes on traditional pasta and main courses (including crab, rabbit and quail)”; plus an interesting, all-Italian wine list.

“Beautifully prepared and served” by hospitality students, a meal at Westminster Kingsway College in Vincent Square is “always a pleasure (and I’ve never had a bad experience)” – it’s “excellent value, too (don’t tell everybody)”. And while it can be “a bit funny” at times being a ‘crash test dummy’ for its student servers, “there’s no need to be patronising – the kids achieve a high level across the board”. Meals are served on weekdays during term time in the Escoffier Room and more casual Brasserie, with wine pairings available.

“An institution that’s been there forever” (well, since 1964) – this “fun, local bistro” is a “go-to in Pimlico for ‘cheer-you-up’ comfort food” from a menu that has barely changed over the decades (moules marinière, fish pie with piped potato, calves’ liver and bacon, crème brûlée). The original wood panelling is unchanged, and “the very friendly team have also been there since the dawn of time!”

2023 Review: “In an old Fire station near Victoria”, Atul Kochhar’s October 2021 newcomer is “a massive undertaking (with over 170 covers)”. It inspires a wide range of reactions, none of them terrible, some of them rapturous, but many of them mixed. The “unusual” food has “amazing spicing, with a focus on fish”, but some dishes can appear “too ordinary” or “needing a rethink” and even fans note they are “expensive”. In a similar vein, the “friendly” service can be “iffy” in its efficiency; and “ambience can be lacking” despite the “stylish conversion”. Still, it’s an ambitious venture still finding its feet, and perhaps the fairest overall verdict at this stage is: “enjoyable rather than brilliant”.

“Fantastic Spanish food” – including a wide range of “good-quality tapas” but also with an interesting variety of larger main dishes – has attracted a loyal local following for this Hispanic veteran in Pimlico over more than three decades – “great service adds to the fun”. Not far from Victoria, it’s a handily situated and affordable venue for larger groups.

A “quirky” but “gorgeous restaurant in a listed building” surrounded by modern skyscrapers – this “Vauxhall institution” occupies a much-chandeliered showroom of architectural antiques (run by LASSCO), which adds a unique sense of occasion to chef Jackson Boxer’s “assured” and “interesting” preparation of “modern British classics”. “Quiet and serene, with a diverse and older crowd of a lunchtime – it’s buzzing and vibrant with a younger clubbier crowd on a weekend”. Top Tip – “the Dexter beef and bone marrow tartare with shallots is the best steak tartare in London”.

2021 Review: “Like a home away from home”, this Pimlico stalwart keeps regulars happy with a “lovely range of tapas” and Spanish classics, “supervised brilliantly by the amazing host, Issy”. “In an age of ever-changing restaurants, it’s a great pleasure to enjoy such consistency over many years.”

“Where every visitor to this country might usefully try our traditional national dish” – this 60-year-old Pimlico veteran a short stroll from Victoria station serves “excellent fish, good chips and mushy peas”, and service is “pleasant” too. Not compulsory, but you can stray beyond cod ’n’ chips if you want to: be it with fritto misto, lobster thermidor, sea bass cooked on the bone…

This quietly ambitious kitchen at Lambeth’s Garden Museum is a real magnet for diners in-the-know (“I’d happily eat here once a week if I lived locally – it’s always different!”). Former Noble Rot head chef Myles Donaldson delivers a daily changing lunch menu that’s not vegetarian or even vegan, but strong on both camps and on delivering “good, healthy food”. The interior is simple, but enhanced by floor-to-ceiling windows looking onto the street and into the garden. (There’s also coffee, cakes, etc all day).

“Probably the best Chinese gastronomic experience in the UK” – Andrew Wong “has changed the game for Chinese cuisine” in the West and “the progress he has made over the years is phenomenal” at this Pimlico HQ (which began life as his parents’ restaurant, Kym’s). “The hype is deserved” for food that’s “exceptional, original, and utterly delicious”: “he really sets the bar and showcases that Chinese gastronomy can go head-to-head against the likes of French and Japanese traditions when it comes to this level of cooking”. (“You can see the refinement and constant drive to make each and every element of a dish better and better”). At lunch, “exquisite dim sum” is served à la carte (and there’s also a lunchtime tasting option). In the evening, there’s the “pure theatre” of a lengthy tasting menu for £200 per person (“I don’t do tasting menus anymore, but this was a wise exception to my rule and an absolute triumph”). To a striking extent, no-one questions the quality here. Even so, some do bristle at the ultimate bill (“the food is exceptional, but you might prefer a week in Greece for similar money?”). “Still, despite the huge money, he’s full, so there are plenty of takers”. Top Tips – “Keep your eyes on instagram for last-minute bookings”. And “if visiting, ensure you have a drink in the basement bar, which very much has an old HK vibe”.

“Huge portions of fresh and wonderfully satisfying Turkish home cooking” are the order of the day at this Pimlico grill not far from Victoria station, which celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. “The lamb shish kebab has a wonderful seasoning and succulence, and arrives with plenty of rice and salad”.

“Deeply flavoured and satisfying” ramen noodles in an “addictive” 20-hour pork bone broth combine with a “noisy hustle and bustle” at this ‘rock ’n’ roll ramen’ chain established in 2012, now with seven venues across central London. Perhaps the “quick and easy” (and noisy) vibe does not translate as satisfyingly from its original Soho site to the suburbs: a branch in leafy Richmond closed down last year, as did a Putney branch before it.

“A bit of a dive to be honest, but the food is still so good!” – no-one claims Mr Taro’s group is particularly stylish, but for “very generous portions of the classic Japanese dishes (including decent sushi, teriyaki and katsu curry)” these functional canteens hit the spot, and at a very good price. The latest (summer 2024) additions to its roster of eight venues are Catford in southeast London and Brentwood in Essex.

“A gem!” – easily missed on the fringes of Westminster (not far from Vincent Square) – this welcoming Nepalese café realises its dumpling, noodles and other simple fare with a light touch. And if you need a lunchtime snack in Paddington, their truck in Merchant Square is also a handy option.

In the Old Westminster Fire Station, this “high-quality” two-year-old offers “interesting takes on Indian food”, “nicely positioned on the spectrum of refined but not too refined, with punchy flavours but not to the point of aggression”. The hardworking marketing team (so many emails!) is strong on offers which can deliver “really good value for such a top-class restaurant”. Top Menu Tip – “the superb kebab platter and Keralan turbot”.

2023 Review: ‘Where there’s tea there’s hope’ is the philosophical underpinning of this “quirky café”, which occupies a converted pub by Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens, and “does amazing breakfasts” and “unusual teas”, plus yummy buns. “They are a tea house though, so there is no coffee available!!”

“A new addition to the Old Westminster Fire Station in London” – this recent newcomer is found below Yaatra (see also) and is run by the same team as upstairs. “Interesting Indo-Chinese cuisine” – including many small plates – offsets a large menu of cocktails and teas, while the decor is themed in the mould of a “1930s Shanghai-style basement”.