The Times
Charlotte Ivers announced her departure from the role of Sunday Times restaurant critic – “I’m moving on… For me, being a journalist is like being a shark: if you stop moving, you die’ – with a return trip to the first “fancy” restaurant she ever visited, almost a decade ago.
She did not say much about the 30-course, £220-a-head ‘Collections of China’ tasting menu she clearly relished, beyond noting that the presentation has changed since her first visit: the dishes arrive in groups (the “collections”) from each region (Hunan, Sichuan, Canton etc) and “you sit like a Qing emperor, surrounded by plates”.
Charlotte also offered an overview of what she has learned in her three years on the eating beat: “I’ve become aware of quite how precarious restaurants like this are, how many things have to go right for them to work, how obsessive their owners are, how many tiny, imperceptible choices they have to get right”.
Charlotte Ivers - 2026-02-01