Ashurst Restaurant Guide

“Everything about Moor Hall is exceptional: the warmth of the welcome, the quality of the food, the care of the service and the calm dining room” (and that also goes for the prices!) at Mark Birchall’s trailblazing venue, a short drive north of Liverpool. “Set in a Grade II 13th-century manor house, there’s a sense of occasion on arrival and they make use of the cosy lounge as a bar and snack area, with the main restaurant in a light-filled, glazed modern extension with exposed rafters (and even a built-in cheese room where you can choose a platter as an additional course)”. “Like the best-oiled of well-oiled machines, everything passes over you in a show of excellence that’s so well-rehearsed and so well done, it’s almost imperceptible that this isn’t all just an interactive theatrical experience just for you” – with the main event being an eight-course tasting menu at £235 per person: “extraordinarily good food, as is the service, which can also be extremely friendly”. “The downside… the downside is the cost. I wouldn’t – couldn‘t – question the value, but the cost, even with the high prices of eating out” is a sticking point for an increasing proportion of diners, leading to an increasingly disgruntled minority who say “nothing blew me away at a place with such excellent reviews, and I was very surprised”. That’s still a minority feeling though. A more common reaction? – “It’s expensive but, that said, the last time I drove away, several hundred pounds poorer, I felt it was all so perfect that I should start robbing banks, or getting government PPE contracts or something, so that I can go more frequently!”

“This is called Moor Hall’s neighbourhood restaurant and that’s how it feels” – Mark Birchall’s descriptively named operation, complete with brick walls and pitched timber-frame roof, is the more informal option at this famous destination and the Michelin star it holds carries perhaps a hint of distraction in that the dishes – while not exactly ‘everyday’ – are in a much less eye- catching vein than in the main building. “Great food is prepared and served by pleasant and efficient staff and the finishing kitchen/pass is in view of the restaurant – it’s a pleasure to see the calm dedication of the team preparing the food”.

“At a mere (…cough) £100 for 6 courses, the more wallet-friendly Michelin-starred alternative in Aughton, Solo offers less of an amazing experience, but still a bloody good one” compared with Moor Hall down the road. Chef-patron Tim Allen has a strong CV and opened here in late 2021 in his first ‘so-lo’ venture. “He’s a very accomplished chef – you always get exceptional cooking – and very nice with it” which, via the open kitchen, helps infuse the relatively simple interior with good vibes. Top Menu Tip – “Halibut is far from my favourite fish, but here it’s a shining example of how good it can be when handled by a top chef. Served with a wild garlic crumb, pickled shimeji and a vin jaune foam. A nicely cooked slice of duck breast came with preserved blackberries, a quenelle of pureed, caramelised cauliflower, and an excellent little roulade of hispi cabbage studded with morteau sausage. Great desserts: a blood orange granita, on top of a vanilla panna cotta, with shards of saffron meringue and rather otiose (but excellent) milk ice cream. Then a sort of apple financier-ish cake, topped with a remarkable aerated honey cream/mousse that rounded things off beautifully”.

“A real bistro near Birkdale station” – the Vérité family-run operation looks firmly rooted in French traditions, but its menu presents many dishes of modern British and European inspiration (eg. Chicken Schnitzel, Madras Spiced Slaw, Coconut Curry Sauce, Bombay Fries, alongside charcuterie, paté and crème brûlée). Top Tip – “great for a business lunch”.

This “buzzy and consistent” brasserie at a stylish modern hotel and wedding venue offers “excellent service and good food”, with an eclectic menu that stretches from “delicious steaks and fish ’n’ chips” to sushi and other Asian delights, then back to comforting domestic desserts including chocolate mousse and fruit crumble.

“Local restaurant which has been there for years and always produces high-quality fare with excellent service”, from the “consistently awesome Locke brothers”, Matt & Adam. “There’s a wide choice of dishes – nothing too ostentatious, just good cooking”, “well-executed and reasonably priced” in a “modern European” idiom. It’s popular, so “booking is necessary”.

2021 Review: South African-born chef Ernst van Zyl and partner Liz Kellett have taken over (and substantially refurbished) this Warrington pub, which opened at the end of 2018. This new place has 60 covers, five rooms and a huge beer garden. Scant survey feedback as yet, but based on his previous gaff – The Lord Clyde in Kerridge – there’s reason to hope for notably accomplished food in this village pub.

“Fabulous food with unusual flavour combinations, lovely staff and great service” make this neighbourhood bistro from Chris Edwards & Owain Williams “well worth the trip to the student quarter of Liverpool”. “Seasonality is the key here” – but “don’t come here for a romantic dinner-for-two: it’s buzzing!”. Top Tip – “the amazing early-bird dinner menu”.

“A spacious, beautiful building” in the Georgian Quarter next to ‘The Phil’ (built in 1888 as a ‘Home for Destitute Children’) hosts Paul Askew’s culinary bastion – still, after ten years in operation, the most high-profile all-rounder in the city in our annual diners’ poll. At heart this is high-quality “traditional” – if contemporized – dining: the ‘Excellence’ menu is a three-course à la carte, although there is also a six-course ‘Tasting’ option at £125 per person: “fabulous food, tremendous service, and a lovely atmosphere”.

“A really great concept – lots of decent beer and spicy, snack-y Indian food” – is the MO of this casual and vividly decorated city-centre outpost of the small northern group: “more like a canteen than a restaurant”. Don’t expect trad curry and Tiger beer, though – here you’re looking at “vegetarian-only food based on Gujarati cuisine” served alongside local craft beers (including their own). The owners started out in Leeds, but there’s also a Manchester Piccadilly sibling that spawned a brewery a few years back.

2022 Review: ‘General Post Office’ now means ‘Global Provisions Outlet’ at this repurposed edifice in the Metquarter – Liverpool's biggest food hall, with 11,000 square feet in which to graze, which opened in summer 2021 and aims to champion independent vendors by offering support and incubation. High-profile initial sign-ups included Nama from Sheffield's JORO – an izakaya-style offering.

Puglia-born chef Maurizio Pellegrini and his Scottish-Italian partner Rosaria Crolla launched this local fixture in 2009 and, all these years later, it’s “still very popular because of the quality of the seafood” (“excellent” oysters and seafood platters, “plus more basic dishes such as seafood risotto and pasta”). There are now two siblings: the Italian Club, and the Italian Club Bakery, both within an easy walk of this venue.

“A reliable, slick operation… always busy”: It all started in this “crowded” converted former bank for ex-barrister Nisha Katona, who has taken the Indian street-food formula she pioneered here and created one of the UK’s better small restaurant groups, nowadays with over 25 outlets around the country. The formula? Dishes are “authentically Indian”, “tasty, vibrant and good value”. Top Menu Tip – “love the chat bombs and the Goan fish curry”.

A leading link in the Elite Bistros chain, run by chef-patron (and tireless social media poster) Gary Usher, who dropped ‘fish’ from the name at the end of 2023 to highlight the wider-ranging nature of the menu. Fans say it’s “excellent all round”, and particularly “great- value at lunchtime” (plus early evenings) when there’s a two-course set for £17 per person, and a three-course set for £20 per person. Despite its change of name, there are “some lovely fish dishes” on the menu, but that’s just the start of it, with the “unctuous featherblade of beef” singled out for praise this year.

“A six-course themed taster menu, that changes every six weeks!” is the “playful idea” at Nico Simeone’s national chain, whose two London branches (in Fitzrovia and Canary Wharf) are “great for special occasions, but also affordable for a regular monthly meal out to experience the different cuisines”. At such keen prices, it’s unreasonable to expect perfection and most diners acknowledge this: it’s “a clever, and obviously very popular, concept, albeit one where the experience can seem a bit manufactured”; “although it doesn’t always live up to expectations, when you get the right menu everything clicks into place”; so while inevitably it’s “hit and miss, it’s also great value”, and “for a fun evening it does the job well”.