York, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Exceptional breakfasts” and “wonderful coffee and cake” are the big draws at this deli/café with a restored Tudor frontage, which the Mannion family originally opened as a grocer’s more than 30 years ago. It’s also a “perfect spot for brunch, with a courtyard outside – the food is of a very high standard and the specials board changes weekly”. There’s now a spin-off in Helmsley.

“Like being on the Titanic without the iceberg!” – with its “piano music and wood panelling taking you back to a bygone age”, its “super service and such attention to detail”, (not to mention its “perfect cakes”) – this iconic tearoom sails serenely on. The same couldn’t be said, though, for its nearby Little Betty’s offshoot, whose closure was announced in Spring 2021.

2021 Review: “Never had a bad meal”, say fans of this “favourite” tiny bistro, off the Gillygate, serving “excellent ingredients prepared with some imagination”. It can feel “rather cramped inside”, though. Top Tip: “go for the garden room in summer, under the medieval city wall”.

The York branch of Richard Caring’s glossy Ivy chain generates most enthusiasm for its attractive interior, which makes it a pleasant spot to while away an hour or two – including over afternoon tea – especially if you can nab a table by the full-length windows (difficult to guarantee, since tables are allocated on arrival).

A “lovely”, “bright and airy venue on the River Ouse” plays host to this city spin-off from Andrew Pern’s well-known Star Inn at Harome, 25 miles to the north. It would surely rate higher were it not for a feeling in some quarters that it offers “nice” or “distinctly average” bistro food “at fine-dining prices”.

“A go-to-restaurant in York!” – Tommy Banks continues to inspire delight at this converted pub in the centre, which is one of our most commented-on destinations in this ever-more foodie city. Central to its appeal is a menu that fans “love, love, love as it’s so creative and sophisticated”, using ingredients grown on the Banks family’s 20-acre farm. There’s only one caveat, and that’s increasing concern over creeping prices: “not sure the Tommy Banks hype is improving things at his two restaurants, and value for money is certainly reducing”. The team is not standing still, though: in November 2021 Will Lockwood transferred from being head chef at The Black Swan to run the kitchen here.

“Really worth a visit” – Adam & Lovaine Humphrey’s intimate, contemporary outfit (fewer than 20 seats) “doesn't disappoint”, whether you opt for the two- or three-course set lunch and dinner or the more elaborate five-course ‘Kitchen Menu’ blending market-led dishes and Arras staples. “Try to fit in the wonderful cheese course and petits fours too!”

2019 Review: A “great little wine bar with exceptional wines, personal service and tasty nibbles” – this three-year-old venture offers simple food (sharing platters, charcuterie, cheeses) to help soak up its vinous offerings. Top Tip: “the ‘Pairing Wine Flights’ matching food with wine are a fab concept and fun to experiment with”.

“Our first blind tasting menu, not completely knowing what to expect. We needn’t have worried!” – Josh & Victoria Overington’s intimate venture at the heart of the city is “a small place that packs a mighty punch”. “Courses flow effortlessly from one to another” with “excitement before each arrival”, and deliver “stunning dishes with incredible flavours beautifully presented”. “Watching the chefs beaver away and then pass the food over to you is great fun too. (Probably the finest thing I ate was a baked scallop with sea urchin butter and Amalfi lemon… makes drooling noise… utter perfection!)”

“Enthusiastic owners” Michael (Roux-trained and also behind the Walmgate Ale House) & Lucy Hjort's “venerable gem” is a “lovely bistro-style restaurant” where the modern British food may be on the “traditional” side, but is never less than “great”.

“A great place for a civilised lunch” – so long as you don’t expect culinary fireworks. This impressive William & Mary country house on the outskirts of York is owned by the National Trust (and was once the residence of traveller and writer Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who introduced the practice of smallpox inoculation to Britain after witnessing it in Turkey).

An “amazing little wine bar and pizza restaurant, opened by the team behind Le Cochon Aveugle”, and just down the road from that venture; on the menu, “fantastic homemade sourdough pizzas and flatbreads, as well as snacks, charcuterie and cheese”. The main event, though, is the “fantastic wine board with bottles that only appear for a short time”, aka 'Last Chance Wines'…“suggest you trust in the team by taking their recommendations!”