The Observer
Jay Rayner was drawn to this converted Walmgate pub by Yemeni-born proprietor Muna Al-Maflehi’s backstory – her “determination to maintain her family’s traditions; to free the country of her birth from a single narrative of war and hardship, however overwhelming that narrative might seem right now”.
He found plenty of familiar Middle Eastern “bangers” on the menu: hummus, baba ganoush, fattoush, tabbouleh and falafel. “Try them by all means,” Jay advised. “But as ever, it makes more sense to order the things you don’t recognise.”
His pick was chicken mandi, a quarter chicken slow-cooked on the bone with aromatics that have penetrated every fibre, served with a timbale of rice. “It is just a plate of chicken and rice, but it is the best chicken and rice.”
Jay Rayner - 2025-02-02
Drinks
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