South Kensington, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

This “lively and friendly local” in South Ken rates well for its “high-quality menu complemented by daily specials”. Opened three years ago by the Lunar Pub Company, it’s “not somewhere for a quiet and romantic dinner, but the young local crowd make it a vibrant venue”.

“Don’t think high end, but these local 24-hour cafés are reliable and pleasant for a plain meal at any hour of the night or day”, but particularly come into their own in the wee hours. In fact, only the well-known Chelsea original and the Aldgate spin-off (in a hotel) are open 24/7: opening hours in Bloomsbury are more selective. (Aldgate also has a standalone bar with a 24-hour alcohol licence).

The flagship of John Brinkley’s wine-focused southwest London group attracts a well-heeled Chelsea set out for a good time. “You really shouldn’t expect great food, let alone good value at this address” – but there’s plenty of fun to be had here, and at spin-offs in Wandsworth Bridge Road and overlooking Wandsworth Common.

2019 Review: The decor can seem “dreary” – a complaint that has dogged this Chelsea site ever since its heady days as ‘Aubergine’ (long RIP) – but this three-year-old spin-off from Gordon Ramsay’s Mayfair grill puts in a better showing than the original: “dreamy burgers” and “outstanding beef” both win praise (if, as at the original, on fairly limited feedback).

“A special place to dine in stylish and intimate rooms” – this “quirkily laid-out” townhouse (est. 1986) in a quiet Kensington backstreet “exudes gracious hospitality” and “never fails to delight”, particularly as a “romantic” destination. Chef Ben Murphy joined in January 2017 and why Michelin have failed to award him a star is anyone’s guess: his cuisine “is delicious with subtle flavour combinations and artistically presented plates” that all make up for a “memorable” occasion. (You would never know it was owned by D&D London – it stands head and shoulders over the rest of their portfolio nowadays.)