London , Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“Is this what business lunching was like 50 year ago?” – this “elegant and wood-panelled” steakhouse, “hidden away in the vast opulence of the Ned” (itself the former Midland Bank HQ) “always impresses a client” with its “wonderful club-like atmosphere”, “the smell of leather and the feeling of luxury” (it’s where “old-school stockbroker dining meets Wolf of Wall Street”). “Power lunches abound within a serene ambience” – “the food leans heavily towards meat with beef Wellington a highlight”.

“It’s as though time was paused 100 years ago” at this Square Mile legend, founded in the 1830s and on its current site since the 1920s. Arrive early if you want to beat the City pinstripes to a table or a spot at the counter, although “it’s worth the wait for a seat while sipping a tankard of Black Velvet”. “Traditional, hearty British fish is served in a manner unchanged by time” – oysters, smoked eel, whitebait – and “the fish pie is still good and not too expensive”. “Longstanding staff add to its stalwart appeal”.

“The lobster roll is just lovely” at this surf’n’turf-meets-burger chain, where you’ll find “plenty of very tasty grub”. “I was expecting to be disappointed, but the food was excellent”. A dozen years on from its launch, the group’s nine London venues tend to be “full of people done up for a big night out, taking lots of selfies for their Insta”.

“Fine fish, delicately cooked and served” is the speciality at this “smart modern restaurant on the top floor of a hotel” near Broadgate, from D&D London. Food of this standard is rare in the City, and “not even the dullest business chat can take the edge off the outstanding cooking and wines”. It’s a discreet place, too, “and the team knows when to shoot the breeze with diners and when to withdraw to let the serious negotiations take place”.

This “great fish restaurant offering a range of seafood (and other) dishes” has been a fixture for more than 20 years, behind a glass frontage “in the middle of buzzing Borough Market”. The fish is “the freshest” and there are “usually some unusual specials” – although many would argue that “the most appealing thing is its location”.

“Crowded… slightly crazy-busy… top oysters supported by a changing menu of fish and crustacea” – that’s the package at this trio of “busy” bistros in Borough Market, Battersea Power Station and South Kensington. “You come here for the seafood, not to be fawned over. The decor’s a little rough and ready but the food’s so fresh and delicious”.

This “reliable” fish specialist on the edge of Borough Market has raised its game in line with the location’s emergence as a culinary mecca, and can accommodate guests year-round, either indoors or on its street terrace. The team has recently opened La Gamba tapas bar at the Southbank Centre.

“Fresh fish and shellfish” – including “oysters to die for” from what is billed as ‘London’s longest oyster list’ – make this glamorous modern venue in Southwark a genuine rarity: a swish rooftop restaurant worth visiting for its food. Set on the 14th floor of a hip hotel, it has “great panoramas over the capital, and the large terrace is a top spot in good weather” – “loved the atmosphere, views and food”.

This swish and “buzzy” hotel dining room on the South Bank walkway – designed by Tom Dixon with full-height windows and a terrace overlooking the river – makes a most “enjoyable place to meet friends” – “and there’s a great bar” by Ryan Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan. On the debit side, it’s certainly “not cheap”, and the food “could be so much better”.

This “authentic chippy” in Clerkenwell – a Greek-Cypriot family-run veteran of more than 50 years’ standing – scores well for its “excellent fish” and “warm, humorous service”.

2022 Review: Hipster haunt, Ace Hotel Shoreditch – and its restaurant Hoi Polloi (RIP) – have gone, but this new Lore Group (Sea Containers et al) opening in autumn 2021 is stepping into its boots and aiming to boost appeal with an expanded rooftop bar and terrace (panoramic views of East London), and a restaurant and wine bar specialising in sustainably sourced seafood. It being EC2, there’s even going to be a take-out hatch (that’s a sign of groovy sophistication these days, apparently…)

2022 Review: Italian seafood and wine (available by the glass) is the simple but high-quality format of this November 2019 opening – a bar, restaurant and shop next door to the area’s long-established ‘Pizarro’. Ex-Four Seasons chef Moreno Polverini presides over an offering ranging from a conventional if modernised Italian à la carte to a five-course ‘seafood feast’ for £85. It’s rated on limited early feedback, all of it positive.

The “super-fresh fish” – “simply prepared” and “never overcooked” – “never disappoints” at this “good value” trio of West End seafood brasseries, in Covent Garden, Marylebone and Swallow Street, off Piccadilly.