Holborn, Burgers, Etc Restaurant Guide

“Fab burgers with a posh turn” – including “awesome sweet potato fries” – still lead the charge at these Frenchified fast-food outfits, but they are transitioning into a brasserie group under the ownership of Hush Mayfair’s Jamie Barber. The 20-year-old original – a “great, cosy little spot in Camden” – and its Balham offshoot are all that remain as pure burger bars, while Kingston, High Holborn and Chelsea are now branded as brasseries with an extended menu to match.

2022 Review: “The duck burger is sublime and the triple-cooked duck-fat chips are moreish” at this offshoot of nearby Club Gascon, which offers a more informal venue for simpler but similar cuisine from SW France. We’ve rated it on the basis of its consistent pre-pandemic performance, as it remains closed as of September 2021 while the team waits for folks to return to their offices around Smithfield.

The “Manhattan-esque atmosphere” is the perennial attraction of this Theatreland favourite (sibling to a famous NYC brasserie near Times Square), which retains the retro charm of a 1970s period piece, even though it was completely rebuilt on a new site just around the corner from the original one just four years ago. “Despite the luvvie buzz, the American food is decidedly second rate (though the off-menu burger is fine)”. “Prices are not unreasonable for the location”, however, and “the youthful staff do their best”.

The “fancy burgers” usually hit the spot this year at TV chef Gordon Ramsay’s growing diffusion chain, with nine sites in the capital as of mid-2023 (and where the frozen chips are provided by another prominent chef now retired from front-line stove action: the venerable Pierre Koffmann). The odd “mixed experience” or “haphazard service” was still reported, but overall ratings were up.